Life at the farmhouse has a comforting cadence, a pleasant predictability, and a soothing similarity each day. Early in the morning the woodcutter arises and splits wood before filling his wheelbarrow and making his rounds to the different fireplaces and wood stoves. He is a simple and humble man who moves slowly but faithfully. Over in the guesthouse there is a very comfortable family room with a wood fireplace. He keeps the fire going whether there is anyone to enjoy it or not. The rooms are heated by steam, powered by a wood stove that he replenishes throughout the day. Bruno also cooks his Etruscan bread in a wood stove. We speak to the woodcutter each morning saying, “Buongiorno!”
He smiles, says “Buongiorno” and goes about his methodical task.
Maritza arrives early to prepare breakfast each morning. There is typical Italian meat, cheese, bruschetta, breads, homemade organic jams, fruit, cereal, yogurt, juices and coffee. In addition, Maritza always scrambles a few eggs and bakes a cake. The freshly baked cake, we had lemon, apple, and chocolate, was always warm, right out of the oven.
Sisi also comes in early and assists Maritza in preparing breakfast and welcoming the guests. She will check with everyone to see if they are having dinner and perhaps lunch. As soon as breakfast is over, Sisi begins to clean the guest rooms.
The men who work on the farm are in and out of the kitchen as they prepare for their day. Maria comes in by 8:30 each morning and we hear the warm shouts of Buongiorno! as Maritza and Sisi welcome her. Stefano and Donatella will often drop in as well. It is evident that these are not just co-workers, this is a special, close knit family. Bruno will come in the afternoon to prepare for the evening meal. Julia is also there, usually helping in the evening, sometimes with Michael and Luka assisting.
When we arrive at breakfast we are always welcomed by Maritza and Sisi. They are so happy to see us and when we compliment them on the delicious food they are humbled and grateful.
We found life at the farmhouse to be the beautiful balm that we needed to restore and renew our spirits. It is peaceful and quiet, soothing and serene. And the kindness and love that Stefano, Donatella, and the staff showed to us was the seal of authenticity that we were indeed members of the Torraccia family.
Joyce developed a bad cough, probably due to allergies, a couple of days before her birthday and it was evident she did not feel well. The entire staff was concerned. Maria called Donatella who was in Florence. Maria also gave Joyce an all-natural antibiotic made of the nectar of bees. Because a large group of school children came to Torraccia di Chiusi on Monday to have dinner and view the stars, Maria had already decided to serve our dinner in our room. It was a good thing, because Joyce did not feel well at all and when Julia, Michael, and Luka served our meal, they also were very concerned.
Joyce slept much better Monday night and felt well as she awoke on April 9, her birthday. It would be a big day. The biggest challenge I was facing was that I was driving to Siena to return the dadgum rental car. Maria, she is an angel, had called and talked to them. They told her it was fine for me to return the car there and there would be no additional charges. Maria also had the address and made sure my Google maps had the correct address so the Google lady could tell me how to get there.
I told Joyce I was going to eat breakfast and leave as soon as possible. Since she was feeling better, she said she also was coming to breakfast a little later.
The first thing Maritza asked me, with her broken English, was how was Joyce. I indicated that she was better and would be coming to breakfast. Joyce and I were the only guests that morning. As soon as Maritza heard Joyce was coming to breakfast she rushed outside and a few minutes later she returned with a beautiful red flower, sort of like a hydrangea, and she placed it at Joyce’s seat along with a homemade card.
When Joyce walked in the door, Maritza and Sisi sang Happy Birthday in English! They hugged Joyce and wished her the most heartfelt Happy Birthday—which made me feel really bad, because in my rush to get ready to take the car back, I had not said a word about Joyce’s birthday!
The homemade card, Maritza called a valentine. When Joyce expressed her deep appreciation for what they had done, Sisi said, “You deserve it because you are so kind.”
I took Joyce’s picture with both Maritza and Sisi. Maria came in and was thrilled that Joyce was better. I have tried to pay Maria for the all-natural antibiotic, but she says no, it is a gift.
I hugged Joyce goodbye and told her not to worry, but the truth was I was very apprehensive about the adventure I was about to take after what had happened in Florence. I told Joyce I would call her when I finally got rid of the car. Maria wished me luck and said not to worry, if the Google lady failed just follow the signs to the train station.
I know the way to the main highway and soon was moving with the traffic on the way to Siena. The fun started when I exited at Siena Nord. The Google lady will tell you that a roundabout was coming and which exit to take, but in Italy all roundabouts are not the same and a small drive might be counted as an exit, or was it? So when the Google lady would say, “At the roundabout, take the third exit.” It wasn’t as simple as one might think. I only messed up three times. Twice, I went to the next roundabout and came back to rectify my mistake. Funny thing about that Google lady, if you miss your turn she doesn’t tell you that you messed up, she just stops talking!
I passed the train station but it was still quite a way to the rental car place. Then I got off at the wrong exit and the Google lady hushed. I was on a one-way street, going up a steep hill, stopped because a big truck had the entire street blocked as it tried to back into a tight space. Stopping on a steep hill with a stick-shift is always a challenge. The truck finally got out of the way, but now I was behind a city bus that stopped every other block. I was creeping along, still a long way from the rental car place.
I finally made it back to a two-way street, and listened intently to the Google lady who was speaking to me again, on which exit to take at each roundabout. I kept getting closer to my destination! The Google lady said to turn right at Eurocar street. That made sense because the rental company was Europcar. I turned and followed a winding street and then saw a sign that read, “Eurocar.”
It looked like a big garage, but I parked and went inside the shop. Everyone was busy working on cars. I thought it was a rather strange place to have a car rental agency, but nevertheless, I walked into an office where a friendly Italian man was talking to a lady. When I showed him my paper he said, “No. No. We only fix cars.”
Then we walked outside and he pointed up a hill. “There!” I thanked him and got back in the dadgum car one last time. A few minutes later I saw a sign that read “Europcar.”
I parked and walked into the office. I handed the lady my paperwork and said I had come to turn in my car.”
“Everything okay?” she asked.
I wanted to say, “It is now!”
She brought my account up on her phone and kept looking at it. I was thinking, Oh no! I expected to her to jump up and say, “You are the one! The crazy American who burns up our car!”
But she walked outside, checked the car, came back inside and said, “Everything is in order. Do you need a taxi?”
I was one happy man to get into that taxi and say goodbye to that dadgum car. We passed a Burger King and I said to my driver that we never eat there. “Me either,” he said. “Italian food too good!”
He dropped me at the train station and I bought a ticket to Poggibonsi for 3 and ½ Euros. I called Joyce to tell her the good news. The car has been returned, all is in order, I’m at the train station and about to board a train bound for Poggibonsi. Forty-five minutes later I stepped off the train and walked over to the Post Office. Gianni met me there and drove me back to Torraccia di Chiusi. Now we could celebrate Joyce’s birthday!
Maria had already been to see Joyce and brought her a gorgeous purple Iris from her garden along with a letter describing the purple Iris as a symbol of Tuscany, hope of spring. Then she added, “Happy Birthday, Dear Joyce. All the best for you. . . . a little scent from my garden. Maria”
There was also a gift from Donatella with this note: “Dearest Joyce, this is a little thought for you, but with many good wishes for a sweet and very special woman with heart. Donatella and Stefano.” Donatella creates women’s organic cosmetics and creams and has started a company named Vicustuscus, based on the secrets of the cosmetic art of the ancient Etruscan people, today rediscovered in San Gimignano. “Beauty creams that tell real stories of a magical, distant past.” She gave Joyce a tube of her hand cream. In addition to being an archeologist, Donatella is also a chemist.
It was soon time for lunch. Maritza and Maria were excited that they could prepare a birthday lunch for Joyce. Maria keeps talking about how simple it is, but it was a lovely meal. We started with a salad with fresh greens and the most delicious cauliflower cooked in olive oil and sautéed onion. There was a simple dish of spaghetti, homemade pasta with tomato sauce. It was actually some of the best pasta we have tasted in Italy. Then we enjoyed a sautéed chicken with mushrooms and olive oil. It was so tender it would melt in your mouth. This was served with potatoes.
When the meal was over we were getting ready to go back to the room when Maria appeared with two bowls of fresh strawberries topped with homemade whipped cream. They were served in lovely china bowls with flowers. Maria said Maritza insisted on the fine china!
At 8 p.m. we made our way to the dining room where Bruno had been working all afternoon. Luka was the waiter tonight and Bruno was serving from the kitchen. We were the only guests.
The first course was an excellent bruschetta with tomato. We had bruschetta every morning, but Joyce had commented one day to Maria how she enjoys bruschetta with tomato. Then came a delicious bean soup followed by pasta with vegetables. Then came the main course: Rabbit! Rabbit is a delicacy in Tuscany and Bruno was going all out for Joyce’s birthday. The rabbit was amazing---but there was more!
Bruno came out with two small strawberry cakes, made with fresh strawberries. We found out later that he had worked on the cakes all afternoon. He lit a birthday candle, placed it on the cake and presented the cake to Joyce! But there was even more!
Stefano produces an extravagant champagne. The couple from Denmark had a bottle the last night and told us how good it was. The champagne is stored in the old Etruscan cellar. Bruno brought out a bottle of champagne and presented it to Joyce. “A gift from Stefano!” he exclaimed as he popped the cork.
What a night!
But suddenly Joyce and I looked at each other. Bruno and Luka had returned to the kitchen. Here we were, stuffed like birds, with delicious strawberry cake and a whole bottle of champagne.
“What are we going to do with this champagne?” Joyce asked.
I took the champagne bottle and went into the kitchen. There was Bruno, lighting up his usual post-dinner cigar, Luka the server, and the woodcutter.
I said, “Please come and join us for a toast. We want to share the champagne with you.”
And they did.
Everyone got champagne glasses and stood around the table. We raised our glasses high and saluted Joyce on this special birthday. And as we did, I thought how appropriate, on this night of nights, this special day in this sacred place, that we would all enjoy a glass of extravagant champagne together—the two of us, the cook, the waiter, and the woodcutter!
The woodcutter smiled and seemed to relish in the moment. In the morning he would be back at his task, chopping wood, filling his wheelbarrow, and keeping the fireplaces and wood stoves burning. But tonight, we celebrated together as one family, all equal in the eyes of God. As Maria said, “You are part of the Torraccia family.”
Joyce and I returned to our room, but before we got ready for bed we walked out on the terrace. We looked across the beautiful Tuscan valley and saw the lights of San Gimignano shining in the distance. We looked above at a cloudless sky and saw the stars and a crescent moon, all of God’s creation in its majestic beauty.
We have felt that we were living in a painting, that it couldn’t be real. But tonight was even more, it was truly magical. And the magic came not from the breathtaking scenery, the mouthwatering food, the extravagant champagne—the magic was found in the love of friends who have accepted us as members of their family and blessed us with their kindness and compassion. The magic came as we knew without a doubt we were a part of this loving family where even the woodcutter can raise a glass and celebrate our joy because we are all one in the family of God.
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