I was blessed to receive the coveted Lily Endowment Sabbatical Grant in 2010, but it wasn’t easy. It was a two-year process that involved detailed planning with a Sabbatical Committee from the church, a painful rejection, a major revision of my plans, and finally the great news that I had been approved for a $45,000 grant!
I had heard that many first-year proposals were denied, but I really thought I had a great proposal that was detailed, creative, and exactly along the lines the endowment was seeking. So, when I was given the opportunity to call the program director and get feedback on why my proposal was rejected, I was shocked when the first thing she said was, “Your proposal is one of the best we have seen.”
Joyce had tried to tell me (she tries to tell me a lot of things-if only I would listen) that I would kill myself trying to do everything I had planned. We were going to conferences, meetings, conventions, seminars, and various convocations.
“But this is what you have to do to earn this kind of money,” I told her.
The Lily Endowment Director said, “I know you must be wondering why we think you have such a great proposal but denied your grant. The answer is simple. If you do everything you have planned to do, you will kill yourself! It is way too much!”
Then she went on to explain that during a Sabbatical one should get a lot of rest and relaxation. “You need to travel,” she told me. “Travel to Europe. See the world!”
With her amazing words ringing in my ears, we planned a five-week trip to Italy that included much rest and relaxation. When we first traveled to Italy, we fell in love with Tuscany. I wanted to find a place where we could go to rest and relax. A Tuscan farmhouse sounded exactly like what we wanted, but how do you go about finding the perfect one.
I spent many hours researching our options and reading travelers’ reviews. I kept coming back to a farmhouse outside of San Gimignano named La Torraccia di Chiusi. All of the reviews were consistent in their glowing praise. In fact, there was not one single negative review, not a negative word. We went to this wonderful farmhouse wondering if it could possibly live up to our lofty expectations—we did not need to worry, it exceeded them.
We returned in 2017 with several other couples from Lexington. Everyone left feeling exactly as we do about the farmhouse. When it came time to plan this Sabbatical, I knew we were going back to our beloved farmhouse in the Tuscan hills overlooking the famed wall city of San Gimignano.
Another beautiful day dawned on Monday, April 1, over the lovely hills outside of Greve in Chianti. The Villa Bordoni has been a perfect place to relax and unwind following our harrowing experience trying to drive out of Florence. We haven’t moved the car since we got here. But now it was necessary to get back behind the wheel and hope for the best.
The Google Map lady said it was about a 48-minute drive from the Villa Bordoni to La Torraccia di Chiusi. We planned on it taking at least an hour and a half. The good news is that the car gave us no problems, although Joyce keeps saying there is a funny smell. The bad news is that we lost connection with the Google Lady and we were “flying blind.”
Joyce was watching her phone closely. One bar, two bars, then no service at all. I was trying to follow the signs to Siena, but the only signs we saw were directing us back to Florence—not where we wanted to go! We approached a little village and she said she was getting three bars of cellular service. I pulled over and yes, we were able to reconnect with the Google Lady. The first thing she told us was that we were driving in the wrong direction. We turned around and started a beautiful drive through the Tuscan countryside, through vineyards and olive groves, past wineries and villas.
About an hour and a half after we left the Villa Bordoni we arrived at La Torraccia di Chiusi! I pulled the car down to the small parking area next to the pond where the geese hang out. We got out of the car and looked around—we felt like we were home! Then we heard a joyous “Buongiorno Ray and Joyce!“ It was our dear friend Maria!
When we first came to La Torraccia di Chiusi in 2010 we did not meet Maria, but her husband Bruno. Bruno is the gifted cook who produces the outstanding Tuscan meals. We also met Stefano, his wife Donatella, and their daughter.
The farmhouse is located on the famed Via Francigena, the ancient Pilgrims highway that led all the way from Canterbury, England to Rome. The Archbishop of Canterbury made this journey in 990 AD and describes the house in some detail, the house before reaching San Gimignano, the house that is today La Torraccia di Chiusi. A noble Italian family, the Conti De Vecchi Abbracciabeni, lived in this farmhouse for 750 years.
But the history of this amazing farmhouse goes back even more, much more, for 2,600 years as Stefano likes to say. Shortly after purchasing this property Stefano discovered an ancient wine cellar that dates back to Etruscan times! The University of Leuven in Belgium sent an archeological team to explore the ruins. The wine cellar still contained wooden barrels that Stefano used to construct the door of his modern wine cellar, which is located in the original Etruscan cellar. But just recently there has been another amazing discovery. A Roman villa dating back to the first century AD was discovered very close to the wine cellar called “Torraccia di Chiusi—Aiano. The University is now working with the Municipality of San Gimignano to create one of the most important archaeological parks in Tuscany.
Through the years many Roman coins and Etruscan artifacts have been discovered on the property. It is no exaggeration when the promotion reads: “On ancient paths in an untouched landscape the organic farmhouse “Torraccia di Chiusi” an undiscovered gem.” And Stefano and Donatella have a love and appreciation for the historical legacy they have inherited and are committed to preserving it for future generations.
The Villa Bordoni was an elegant home with a formal garden and the food was what I would describe as Tuscan Gourmet. But the farmhouse is different. This is still a working farm and the setting is more rustic. Bruno is not a formal chef, but a traditional Tuscan cook. He bakes bread in an antique wood stove. He has carefully researched ancient Etruscan and Medieval recipes.
Each night we have enjoyed five-course meals beginning with an appetizer like bruschetta, a soup, a pasta, a main course (We have enjoyed pepper beef, roasted pork with a brown sugar glaze, and pork ribs) and a light dessert with the obligatory Grappa! The food cooked in the farm kitchen also reflects the seasonal produce of the land.
We are staying at the spacious Eagle Owl Suite with a stunning view of San Gimignano across the valley. Indeed, the scenery is so beautiful that we have commented we are living in a painting! We truly feel that we are like family. Stefano and Donatella were so happy to see us. Bruno, who doesn’t speak English, as well. Plus, the wonderful staff and of course, our dear Maria.
Maria had a delicious lunch waiting for us. As we were enjoying lunch and catching up on family, she asked, “Is everything okay?”
We told her that everything at La Torraccia di Chiusi was wonderful, but we had a problem. We told her about the car.
Maria was very sympathetic and understanding. She told us that she does not even drive in Florence. She asked to see a copy of my rental agreement.
Later that afternoon Maria had worked out a solution. I can return the car to Siena without any additional charge. That will be much easier than driving to Florence. I plan to take the car back next Tuesday, then I will take a train back to Poggibonsi where Maria will have a driver waiting for me. Next Wednesday we will have a driver take us to Florence so we will not have to drive in that exasperating city. I knew Maria could work it out---and she did!
We drove to San Gimignano on Tuesday. We took our time strolling through the city known for its many towers. We decided to visit the ancient Cathedral that was consecrated by Pope Eugenio III in 1142. This cathedral is home to some of the greatest Italian frescoes in all of Tuscany, including some by the renown Renaissance master Ghirlandaio.
In Medieval times most people could not read, so the frescoes served as an educational tool to teach the stories of the Bible. Almost all of the interior walls are covered with frescoes by Italian masters. The left wall contains scenes from the Old Testament and the right wall from the New Testament. By far the largest and most elaborate fresco is the Crucifixion. We were not allowed to take photos, but we had audio guides that gave detailed information on each individual fresco. We spent a lot of time reflecting on the majesty of these ancient works of art. As Holy Week is approaching, standing in front of the magnificent fresco of the Crucifixion was a very moving experience.
There were many groups of school children in the piazza. It was obvious that it was a special day with performances and entertainment. We found out later that the focus of the celebration was Autism awareness.
We found a little restaurant named Beppone off the beaten path with a kind and warm owner who welcomed us. We had salad and Margherita Pizza that was advertised as authentic Naples pizza. We found out that the owner was from Naples and he has a brother who operates a B&B there. The pizza was excellent.
On the way back to the farmhouse we stopped at the Bottega Torciano, which is owned by our friend, Pierluigi Giachi. I will refer you to a blog I posted on November 2, 2017 titled: “Holy Wisdom Under the Tuscan Sky.” I will never forget standing on the very top of Pierluigi’s tower in San Gimignano and recalling another trip we had made to Italy when we first met him. I mentioned several of our friends who were on that trip, but are no longer with us: Bill Delapp, Bob and Marge Team.
With tears in his eyes he placed his hand on my shoulder, looked at me and said, “Ray, we all live under the sky. Every day is a gift. We must “Carpe Diem” Seize the Day!”
Joyce and I walked into the Bottega Torciano and guess who was there! He saw Joyce first and jumped to his feet! “My lady!” Pierluigi was always the ladies’ man. He seemed so happy to see us. He remembered the group we had in October of 2017. The next thing we knew he was bringing us food and pouring wine from his best bottles (80 Euros and more!). And he said, “These are my friends! This is all on the house!” And we had already had a generous lunch!
We are planning to have lunch at his winery on Sunday.
When we were planning for our group to come to the farmhouse in October of 2017, I asked Maria for a recommendation for a guide. Without hesitation she suggested that I contact Marialuisa with “My Tuscan Wine and Tours.” Marialuisa is a very well educated and gifted guide. Her English is excellent. Her family owns the Cesani winery that produces some delicious wines.
She did an outstanding job for us in 2017, so I contacted her again. She was happy to hear from us and for two days Joyce and I have our private guide taking us on tours of Tuscany! Being with Marialuisa is like being with family.
Our first stop was the ancient walled city of Volterra that sits high on a hill and is visible for miles in every direction. Volterra also goes back to Etruscan times and there is an Etruscan Museum in the city. It is known for its alabaster and there are dozens of shops specializing in beautiful alabaster products. It has a gorgeous cathedral, also with beautiful frescoes, but it has been closed for renovation of over a year. We did see the octagonal Baptistery and I was able to share with Marialuisa the significance of the eight sides (Eight people saved in the flood—Eight is the first day of new creation).
It was a cloudy, cool day—a few raindrops but we never opened our umbrellas—actually a perfect day for walking around the old city. There are some breathtaking views from Volterra and on a clear, cloudless day you can see all the way to the Mediterranean.
After visiting Volterra, Marialuisa had a special treat in store for us---a sheep farm. Located in the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany, under the view of Volterra in the distance, you will find an expansive farm with 800 sheep—the Fattario Lischeto. We were greeted by the gregarious owner, Giovanni, who along with his sister, Rosita, were happy to welcome us as family.
The farm has several apartments and they welcome artists and students from different countries. We sat down in front of an inviting wood fire and enjoyed an absolutely delicious meal with various cheeses, but most especially the extraordinary Pecorino delle Balze Volterrane! With salads, breads, and a delicious homemade organic pasta with wild boar, we enjoyed a delightful lunch with Marialuisa and Giovanni.
Marialuisa said that eating with them is like eating with family, and we found this to be true. Giovanni came to the table with a slab of salted pork. He said they had never done this before but had salted part of the back and now it was time to try it. He cut the pork for the first time and shared it with us! It reminded me of country ham, very tasty.
Giovanni has been a true entrepreneur when it comes to his cheeses. He has organized a consortium of farmers and they are lobbying the government to establish strict regulations and standards for the production of cheese, much as they do their wine. He also told us of a New York City food critic who named his Pecorino cheese the best in the world! He was not bashful in sharing this with us! That and the fact he just returned from Canada where he received even more international awards. He was wearing a medal on his coat to prove it!
He has a hearty laugh and a great personality to go with it. When I was taking his picture with Marialuisa, he said “CHEESE!”
Somehow in this conversation it was revealed that I am a storyteller and Joyce implied that I sometimes “exaggerate.” Giovanni looked at me and said, “We are very similar!”
After a long, leisurely lunch Marialuisa drove us back towards San Gimignano to her family winery, Cesani. One day when we were touring back in 2017, I asked Marialuisa about the Second World War and she told me a powerful story. Her great-grandfather left to go fight in the First World War and never returned. Her great-grandmother raised her son praying that he would never see war, but as Marialuisa said, “He did not have a choice. It was either go fight or be killed.”
The family owned no land, had very little material resources. They would have been the equivalent of sharecroppers in our society. Her grandfather was captured by the Allies and became a POW. The family did not know if he was dead or alive. But he was very much alive. An American Colonel made him his personal chef and driver. When the war was over, the Colonel said to him, “I know you are a prisoner, but you have been of great service to me. I am indebted to you for all you have done.”
The Colonel gave Mr. Cesani a generous sum of money. With the money, he returned home and purchased the land that is today the Cesani winery. It is truly a family operation with Marialuisa, her sister, and her mother and father who operate the business. There are 9,000 olive trees and many acres of vineyards.
Just before we reached the Cesani winery we drove past the family church. Marialuisa told us that the church was completely destroyed in the Second World War. The only thing that survived was a beautiful fresco of Mary. The church has been rebuilt exactly as it was before the war. The fresco of Mary is the centerpiece, of course. And I wonder after hearing the story of the grandfather and the fresco of Mary surviving the war, if that might have had something to do with her being named, Marialuisa. Family and tradition are the two values that have guided this family business. Their mission is to enhance humanity and nature.
On the way to her winery, Marialuisa pointed out a tall hill in the distance. One day towards the end of the Second World War, German soldiers rounded up all the men left in San Gimignano, young and old. They marched them to the top of that hill and killed them---over 100 innocent men. These were not soldiers. They were grandfathers, fathers, brothers, husbands, and sons.
Tuscany is one of the most beautiful places on the face of the earth. But as in the book of Genesis, the heart of man is continually evil. Evil and hatred can destroy even the most beautiful scenes of God’s creation. But thanks be to God there is the cross where all of the pain, the injustice, the inhumanity of evil man comes into focus as Jesus bears our pain and pays for our sins, and the beauty returns to God’s creation.
Thursday has been windy and rainy, a perfect day to stay in the farmhouse and read and write. Tomorrow, we have another day-long adventure with our friend, Marialuisa.
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