In the beautiful, rolling Tuscan hills south of Florence, Italy, there is a little town on the top of a hill that looks like it belongs in a fairy tale. The Medieval City of San Gimignano was once one of the most powerful and wealthy cities in Italy. The walled city can be seen from miles in every direction, as all medieval cities were elevated for defensive purposes. It rests on an ancient Etruscan road, that became a Roman Road, later used by the Crusaders. Several hundred years ago it became an important pilgrim road, the Via Francigena, that went all the way from Canterbury, England to Rome.
In medieval times, rich families would build towers to display their wealth; the more money you had, the taller the tower. At one point there were 72 towers in San Gimignano, including two identical twin towers that the architects of the Twin Towers in New York City studied. Today, there are 14 towers remaining. From a distance, the towers rising from the walled city give the appearance of a fairy tale castle.
Around 30 years ago, a group from our community traveled to Italy. Outside of San Gimignano we visited a winery, the Tenuta Torciano that dates back to 1720. Here is where we met the charismatic and charming owner, Pierlugia Giachi.
Joyce and I returned to San Gimignano in 2010. We were quickly reunited with Pierlugia who acted like we were long lost friends. Joyce asked me if I thought he really remembered us. “Well,” I said. “If he didn’t he sure put on a good show.”
I think he did actually remember us, because a few years later we planned a trip back to Italy with several friends. I contacted Pierlugia to see if we could arrange a dinner at his winery. He not only arranged the dinner for us, but he invited us to visit his home which happens to be one the 14 remaining towers in San Gimignano. His is the only tower that is a private residence—his tower dates back to 600 AD, it was once the home of Italy’s Prime Minister.
When someone invites you into their home it is a great honor. It is the Biblical gift of hospitality which Pierlugia obviously has. We socialized on his terrace together and then he invited us to climb to the top of the 1400 year-old tower. The views from the top were absolutely stunning.
As we were standing there, I expressed to him what a great honor he had given to us to invite us into his home. He told me the honor was all his.
I shared with Pierlugia that when we first met him, there were a number of people in that group who are no longer with us. I was thinking specifically of Bob and Marge Team, and Bill and Sara Delapp.
Pierlugia thought about it for a moment, then he looked at me with tears in his eyes as he pointed to the beautiful blue sky. I will never forget his words.
“Ray, we all live under the sky. Every day is a gift. We must Carpe Diem, ‘Seize the Day.’”
We all live under the sky. Now that Joyce is no longer with me, I think about his words often. I look back at those wonderful trips to Italy, to Israel, and to Belize. I think about special moments with family, of trips when the children were young. I think about us celebrating our 25th wedding anniversary in Hawaii and our 40th anniversary in New York City.
But there was one special moment in April of 2019. Joyce and I had returned to our Tuscan Farmhouse where everyone is like family.
In 2010, I received a generous Sabbatical grant from the Lily Endowment. They encouraged me to use part of the money to travel.
I spent many hours researching our options and reading travelers’ reviews. I kept coming back to a farmhouse outside of San Gimignano named La Torraccia di Chiusi. All of the reviews were consistent in their glowing praise. In fact, there was not one single negative review, not a negative word. We went to this wonderful farmhouse wondering if it could possibly live up to our lofty expectations—we did not need to worry, it exceeded them.
Joyce and I visited the farmhouse four times, the last time in 2019. Our last day at the farmhouse was Joyce’s birthday.
The farmhouse manager, Maria, gave Joyce a gorgeous purple Iris from her garden along with a letter describing the purple Iris as a symbol of Tuscany, hope of spring. Then she added, “Happy Birthday, Dear Joyce. All the best for you. . . . a little scent from my garden. Maria”
There was also a gift from Donatella who owns the farmhouse with her husband, Stefano. She wrote: “Dearest Joyce, this is a little thought for you, but with many good wishes for a sweet and very special woman with heart. Donatella and Stefano.”
Donatella creates women’s organic cosmetics and creams and has started a company named Vicustuscus, based on the secrets of the cosmetic art of the ancient Etruscan people, today rediscovered in San Gimignano. “Beauty creams that tell real stories of a magical, distant past.” She gave Joyce a tube of her hand cream. In addition to being an archeologist, Donatella is also a chemist.
Maritza and Maria were excited that they could prepare a birthday lunch for Joyce. Maria kept talking about how simple it was, but it was a lovely meal. We started with a salad with fresh greens and the most delicious cauliflower cooked in olive oil and sautéed onion. There was a simple dish of spaghetti, homemade pasta with tomato sauce. It was actually some of the best pasta we have tasted in Italy. Then we enjoyed a sautéed chicken with mushrooms and olive oil. It was so tender it would melt in your mouth. This was served with potatoes.
When the meal was over we were getting ready to go back to the room when Maria appeared with two bowls of fresh strawberries topped with homemade whipped cream. They were served in lovely china bowls with flowers. Maria said, “Maritza insisted on the fine china!”
That evening, we made our way to the dining room where Bruno, Maria’s husband and our cook, had been working all afternoon. Luka was the waiter tonight and Bruno was serving from the kitchen. Joyce and I were the only guests.
The first course was an excellent bruschetta with tomato. We had bruschetta every morning, but Joyce had commented one day to Maria how she enjoys bruschetta with tomato. Then came a delicious bean soup followed by pasta with vegetables. This was followed by the main course: Rabbit! Rabbit is a delicacy in Tuscany. Bruno was going all out for Joyce’s birthday. The rabbit was amazing---but there was more!
Bruno came out with two small strawberry cakes, made with fresh strawberries. We found out later that he had worked on the cakes all afternoon. He lit a birthday candle, placed it on the cake and presented the cake to Joyce! But there was even more!
Stefano produces an extravagant champagne. The champagne is stored in an old Etruscan cellar. Bruno brought out a bottle of champagne and presented it to Joyce. “A gift from Stefano!” he exclaimed as he popped the cork.
What a night!
But suddenly Joyce and I looked at each other. Bruno and Luka had returned to the kitchen. Here we were, stuffed like birds, with delicious strawberry cake and a whole bottle of champagne.
“What are we going to do with this champagne?” Joyce asked.
I took the champagne bottle and went into the kitchen. There was Bruno, lighting up his usual post-dinner cigar, Luka the server, and the woodcutter for the farmhouse.
I said, “Please come and join us for a toast. We want to share the champagne with you.”
And they did.
Everyone got champagne glasses and stood around the table. We raised our glasses high and saluted Joyce on this special birthday. And as we did, I thought how appropriate, on this night of nights, this special day in this sacred place, that we would all enjoy a glass of extravagant champagne together—the two of us, the cook, the waiter, and the woodcutter!
The woodcutter smiled and seemed to relish in the moment. In the morning he would be back at his task, chopping wood, filling his wheelbarrow, and keeping the fireplaces and wood stoves burning. But tonight, we celebrated together as one family, all equal in the eyes of God. As Maria said, “You are part of the Torraccia family.”
Joyce and I returned to our room, but before we got ready for bed we walked out on the terrace. We looked across the beautiful Tuscan valley and saw the lights of San Gimignano with its towers shining in the distance. We looked above at a cloudless sky and saw the stars and a crescent moon, all of God’s creation in its majestic beauty. We all live under the sky.
We have felt that we were living in a painting, that it couldn’t be real. But this night was even more, it was truly magical. And the magic came not from the breathtaking scenery, the mouthwatering food, the extravagant champagne—the magic was found in the love of friends who have accepted us as members of their family and blessed us with their kindness and compassion. The magic came as we knew without a doubt we were a part of this loving family where even the woodcutter can raise a glass and celebrate our joy because we are all one in the family of God.
We all live under the sky. Every day is a gift. Carpe Diem, “Seize the Day!”