The Birthday at the Farmhouse

            Life at the farmhouse has a comforting cadence, a pleasant predictability, and a soothing similarity each day.   Early in the morning the woodcutter arises and splits wood before filling his wheelbarrow and making his rounds to the different fireplaces and wood stoves.  He is a simple and humble man who moves slowly but faithfully.  Over in the guesthouse there is a very comfortable family room with a wood fireplace.  He keeps the fire going whether there is anyone to enjoy it or not.  The rooms are heated by steam, powered by a wood stove that he replenishes throughout the day.  Bruno also cooks his Etruscan bread in a wood stove.  We speak to the woodcutter each morning saying, “Buongiorno!”

        He smiles, says “Buongiorno” and goes about his methodical task. 

        Maritza arrives early to prepare breakfast each morning.  There is typical Italian meat, cheese, bruschetta, breads, homemade organic jams, fruit, cereal, yogurt, juices and coffee.  In addition, Maritza always scrambles a few eggs and bakes a cake.  The freshly baked cake, we had lemon, apple, and chocolate, was always warm, right out of the oven. 

        Sisi also comes in early and assists Maritza in preparing breakfast and welcoming the guests.  She will check with everyone to see if they are having dinner and perhaps lunch.  As soon as breakfast is over, Sisi begins to clean the guest rooms.

        The men who work on the farm are in and out of the kitchen as they prepare for their day.  Maria comes in by 8:30 each morning and we hear the warm shouts of Buongiorno! as Maritza and Sisi welcome her.  Stefano and Donatella will often drop in as well.  It is evident that these are not just co-workers, this is a special, close knit family.  Bruno will come in the afternoon to prepare for the evening meal.  Julia is also there, usually helping in the evening, sometimes with Michael and Luka assisting. 

        When we arrive at breakfast we are always welcomed by Maritza and Sisi.  They are so happy to see us and when we compliment them on the delicious food they are humbled and grateful.

        We found life at the farmhouse to be the beautiful balm that we needed to restore and renew our spirits.  It is peaceful and quiet, soothing and serene.  And the kindness and love that Stefano, Donatella, and the staff showed to us was the seal of authenticity that we were indeed members of the Torraccia family. 

        Joyce developed a bad cough, probably due to allergies, a couple of days before her birthday and it was evident she did not feel well.  The entire staff was concerned.  Maria called Donatella who was in Florence.  Maria also gave Joyce an all-natural antibiotic made of the nectar of bees.  Because a large group of school children came to Torraccia di Chiusi on Monday to have dinner and view the stars, Maria had already decided to serve our dinner in our room.   It was a good thing, because Joyce did not feel well at all and when Julia, Michael, and Luka served our meal, they also were very concerned.

        Joyce slept much better Monday night and felt well as she awoke on April 9, her birthday.  It would be a big day.  The biggest challenge I was facing was that I was driving to Siena to return the dadgum rental car.  Maria, she is an angel, had called and talked to them.   They told her it was fine for me to return the car there and there would be no additional charges.  Maria also had the address and made sure my Google maps had the correct address so the Google lady could tell me how to get there.  

        I told Joyce I was going to eat breakfast and leave as soon as possible.   Since she was feeling better, she said she also was coming to breakfast a little later.

        The first thing Maritza asked me, with her broken English, was how was Joyce.  I indicated that she was better and would be coming to breakfast.  Joyce and I were the only guests that morning.   As soon as Maritza heard Joyce was coming to breakfast she rushed outside and a few minutes later she returned with a beautiful red flower, sort of like a hydrangea, and she placed it at Joyce’s seat along with a homemade card. 

        When Joyce walked in the door, Maritza and Sisi sang Happy Birthday in English!  They hugged Joyce and wished her the most heartfelt Happy Birthday—which made me feel really bad, because in my rush to get ready to take the car back, I had not said a word about Joyce’s birthday!

        The homemade card, Maritza called a valentine.  When Joyce expressed her deep appreciation for what they had done, Sisi said, “You deserve it because you are so kind.”

        I took Joyce’s picture with both Maritza and Sisi.   Maria came in and was thrilled that Joyce was better.  I have tried to pay Maria for the all-natural antibiotic, but she says no, it is a gift.

        I hugged Joyce goodbye and told her not to worry, but the truth was I was very apprehensive about the adventure I was about to take after what had happened in Florence.  I told Joyce I would call her when I finally got rid of the car.  Maria wished me luck and said not to worry, if the Google lady failed just follow the signs to the train station.

        I know the way to the main highway and soon was moving with the traffic on the way to Siena.   The fun started when I exited at Siena Nord.  The Google lady will tell you that a roundabout was coming and which exit to take, but in Italy all roundabouts are not the same and a small drive might be counted as an exit, or was it?  So when the Google lady would say, “At the roundabout, take the third exit.”  It wasn’t as simple as one might think.  I only messed up three times.  Twice, I went to the next roundabout and came back to rectify my mistake.  Funny thing about that Google lady, if you miss your turn she doesn’t tell you that you messed up, she just stops talking!

        I passed the train station but it was still quite a way to the rental car place.  Then I got off at the wrong exit and the Google lady hushed.  I was on a one-way street, going up a steep hill, stopped because a big truck had the entire street blocked as it tried to back into a tight space.  Stopping on a steep hill with a stick-shift is always a challenge.   The truck finally got out of the way, but now I was behind a city bus that stopped every other block.  I was creeping along, still a long way from the rental car place.  

        I finally made it back to a two-way street, and listened intently to the Google lady who was speaking to me again, on which exit to take at each roundabout.  I kept getting closer to my destination!  The Google lady said to turn right at Eurocar street.   That made sense because the rental company was Europcar.  I turned and followed a winding street and then saw a sign that read, “Eurocar.”  

        It looked like a big garage, but I parked and went inside the shop.  Everyone was busy working on cars.  I thought it was a rather strange place to have a car rental agency, but nevertheless, I walked into an office where a friendly Italian man was talking to a lady.  When I showed him my paper he said, “No.  No.  We only fix cars.”

        Then we walked outside and he pointed up a hill.  “There!”   I thanked him and got back in the dadgum car one last time.   A few minutes later I saw a sign that read “Europcar.” 

        I parked and walked into the office.  I handed the lady my paperwork and said I had come to turn in my car.”

        “Everything okay?” she asked.

        I wanted to say, “It is now!”

        She brought my account up on her phone and kept looking at it.   I was thinking, Oh no!  I expected to her to jump up and say, “You are the one!  The crazy American who burns up our car!”

        But she walked outside, checked the car, came back inside and said, “Everything is in order.  Do you need a taxi?”

        I was one happy man to get into that taxi and say goodbye to that dadgum car.  We passed a Burger King and I said to my driver that we never eat there.  “Me either,” he said.  “Italian food too good!”

        He dropped me at the train station and I bought a ticket to Poggibonsi for 3 and ½ Euros.  I called Joyce to tell her the good news.  The car has been returned, all is in order, I’m at the train station and about to board a train bound for Poggibonsi.  Forty-five minutes later I stepped off the train and walked over to the Post Office.  Gianni met me there and drove me back to Torraccia di Chiusi.  Now we could celebrate Joyce’s birthday!

        Maria had already been to see Joyce and brought her a gorgeous purple Iris from her garden along with a letter describing the purple Iris as a symbol of Tuscany, hope of spring.  Then she added, “Happy Birthday, Dear Joyce.  All the best for you. . . . a little scent from my garden.  Maria”

        There was also a gift from Donatella with this note:  “Dearest Joyce, this is a little thought for you, but with many good wishes for a sweet and very special woman with heart.  Donatella and Stefano.”  Donatella creates women’s organic cosmetics and creams and has started a company named Vicustuscus, based on the secrets of the cosmetic art of the ancient Etruscan people, today rediscovered in San Gimignano. “Beauty creams that tell real stories of a magical, distant past.” She gave Joyce a tube of her hand cream.  In addition to being an archeologist, Donatella is also a chemist.

        It was soon time for lunch.   Maritza and Maria were excited that they could prepare a birthday lunch for Joyce.  Maria keeps talking about how simple it is, but it was a lovely meal.  We started with a salad with fresh greens and the most delicious cauliflower cooked in olive oil and sautéed onion.   There was a simple dish of spaghetti, homemade pasta with tomato sauce.  It was actually some of the best pasta we have tasted in Italy.  Then we enjoyed a sautéed chicken with mushrooms and olive oil.  It was so tender it would melt in your mouth.  This was served with potatoes. 

        When the meal was over we were getting ready to go back to the room when Maria appeared with two bowls of fresh strawberries topped with homemade whipped cream.  They were served in lovely china bowls with flowers.  Maria said Maritza insisted on the fine china!

        At 8 p.m. we made our way to the dining room where Bruno had been working all afternoon.  Luka was the waiter tonight and Bruno was serving from the kitchen.  We were the only guests. 

        The first course was an excellent bruschetta with tomato.   We had bruschetta every morning, but Joyce had commented one day to Maria how she enjoys bruschetta with tomato.  Then came a delicious bean soup followed by pasta with vegetables.  Then came the main course:  Rabbit!   Rabbit is a delicacy in Tuscany and Bruno was going all out for Joyce’s birthday.  The rabbit was amazing---but there was more! 

        Bruno came out with two small strawberry cakes, made with fresh strawberries.  We found out later that he had worked on the cakes all afternoon.  He lit a birthday candle, placed it on the cake and presented the cake to Joyce!   But there was even more!

        Stefano produces an extravagant champagne.  The couple from Denmark had a bottle the last night and told us how good it was.   The champagne is stored in the old Etruscan cellar.  Bruno brought out a bottle of champagne and presented it to Joyce.  “A gift from Stefano!” he exclaimed as he popped the cork. 

        What a night!  

        But suddenly Joyce and I looked at each other.  Bruno and Luka had returned to the kitchen.  Here we were, stuffed like birds, with delicious strawberry cake and a whole bottle of champagne. 

        “What are we going to do with this champagne?” Joyce asked.

        I took the champagne bottle and went into the kitchen.  There was Bruno, lighting up his usual post-dinner cigar, Luka the server, and the woodcutter. 

        I said, “Please come and join us for a toast.  We want to share the champagne with you.”

        And they did.

        Everyone got champagne glasses and stood around the table.  We raised our glasses high and saluted Joyce on this special birthday.  And as we did, I thought how appropriate, on this night of nights, this special day in this sacred place, that we would all enjoy a glass of extravagant champagne together—the two of us, the cook, the waiter, and the woodcutter!

        The woodcutter smiled and seemed to relish in the moment.  In the morning he would be back at his task, chopping wood, filling his wheelbarrow, and keeping the fireplaces and wood stoves burning.  But tonight, we celebrated together as one family, all equal in the eyes of God.  As Maria said, “You are part of the Torraccia family.”

        Joyce and I returned to our room, but before we got ready for bed we walked out on the terrace.  We looked across the beautiful Tuscan valley and saw the lights of San Gimignano shining in the distance.  We looked above at a cloudless sky and saw the stars and a crescent moon, all of God’s creation in its majestic beauty.  

        We have felt that we were living in a painting, that it couldn’t be real.  But tonight was even more, it was truly magical.  And the magic came not from the breathtaking scenery, the mouthwatering food, the extravagant champagne—the magic was found in the love of friends who have accepted us as members of their family and blessed us with their kindness and compassion.  The magic came as we knew without a doubt we were a part of this loving family where even the woodcutter can raise a glass and celebrate our joy because we are all one in the family of God.

       

         

       

La Torraccia di Chiusi

        I was blessed to receive the coveted Lily Endowment Sabbatical Grant in 2010, but it wasn’t easy.  It was a two-year process that involved detailed planning with a Sabbatical Committee from the church, a painful rejection, a major revision of my plans, and finally the great news that I had been approved for a $45,000 grant! 

        I had heard that many first-year proposals were denied, but I really thought I had a great proposal that was detailed, creative, and exactly along the lines the endowment was seeking.  So, when I was given the opportunity to call the program director and get feedback on why my proposal was rejected, I was shocked when the first thing she said was, “Your proposal is one of the best we have seen.”

        Joyce had tried to tell me (she tries to tell me a lot of things-if only I would listen) that I would kill myself trying to do everything I had planned.  We were going to conferences, meetings, conventions, seminars, and various convocations. 

        “But this is what you have to do to earn this kind of money,” I told her.

        The Lily Endowment Director said, “I know you must be wondering why we think you have such a great proposal but denied your grant.  The answer is simple.  If you do everything you have planned to do, you will kill yourself!  It is way too much!”

        Then she went on to explain that during a Sabbatical one should get a lot of rest and relaxation.  “You need to travel,” she told me.  “Travel to Europe.  See the world!”

        With her amazing words ringing in my ears, we planned a five-week trip to Italy that included much rest and relaxation.  When we first traveled to Italy, we fell in love with Tuscany.  I wanted to find a place where we could go to rest and relax.  A Tuscan farmhouse sounded exactly like what we wanted, but how do you go about finding the perfect one. 

         I spent many hours researching our options and reading travelers’ reviews.  I kept coming back to a farmhouse outside of San Gimignano named La Torraccia di Chiusi.  All of the reviews were consistent in their glowing praise.  In fact, there was not one single negative review, not a negative word.  We went to this wonderful farmhouse wondering if it could possibly live up to our lofty expectations—we did not need to worry, it exceeded them. 

        We returned in 2017 with several other couples from Lexington.  Everyone left feeling exactly as we do about the farmhouse.  When it came time to plan this  Sabbatical, I knew we were going back to our beloved farmhouse in the Tuscan hills overlooking the famed wall city of San Gimignano.  

        Another beautiful day dawned on Monday, April 1, over the lovely hills outside of Greve in Chianti.  The Villa Bordoni has been a perfect place to relax and unwind following our harrowing experience trying to drive out of Florence.   We haven’t moved the car since we got here.  But now it was necessary to get back behind the wheel and hope for the best. 

        The Google Map lady said it was about a 48-minute drive from the Villa Bordoni to La Torraccia di Chiusi.  We planned on it taking at least an hour and a half.  The good news is that the car gave us no problems, although Joyce keeps saying there is a funny smell.  The bad news is that we lost connection with the Google Lady and we were “flying blind.”  

        Joyce was watching her phone closely.  One bar, two bars, then no service at all.  I was trying to follow the signs to Siena, but the only signs we saw were directing us back to Florence—not where we wanted to go!   We approached a little village and she said she was getting three bars of cellular service.  I pulled over and yes, we were able to reconnect with the Google Lady.  The first thing she told us was that we were driving in the wrong direction.  We turned around and started a beautiful drive through the Tuscan countryside, through vineyards and olive groves, past wineries and villas. 

        About an hour and a half after we left the Villa Bordoni we arrived at La Torraccia di Chiusi!   I pulled the car down to the small parking area next to the pond where the geese hang out.  We got out of the car and looked around—we felt like we were home!   Then we heard a joyous “Buongiorno Ray and Joyce!“   It was our dear friend Maria! 

        When we first came to La Torraccia di Chiusi in 2010 we did not meet Maria, but her husband Bruno.  Bruno is the gifted cook who produces the outstanding Tuscan meals.  We also met Stefano, his wife Donatella, and their daughter. 

        The farmhouse is located on the famed Via Francigena, the ancient Pilgrims highway that led all the way from Canterbury, England to Rome.  The Archbishop of Canterbury made this journey in 990 AD and describes the house in some detail, the house before reaching San Gimignano, the house that is today La Torraccia di Chiusi.  A noble Italian family, the Conti De Vecchi Abbracciabeni, lived in this farmhouse for 750 years.

        But the history of this amazing farmhouse goes back even more, much more, for 2,600 years as Stefano likes to say.  Shortly after purchasing this property Stefano discovered an ancient wine cellar that dates back to Etruscan times!  The University of Leuven in Belgium sent an archeological team to explore the ruins.  The wine cellar still contained wooden barrels that Stefano used to construct the door of his modern wine cellar, which is located in the original Etruscan cellar.  But just recently there has been another amazing discovery.  A Roman villa dating back to the first century AD was discovered very close to the wine cellar called “Torraccia di Chiusi—Aiano.  The University is now working with the Municipality of San Gimignano to create one of the most important archaeological parks in Tuscany.

        Through the years many Roman coins and Etruscan artifacts have been discovered on the property.  It is no exaggeration when the promotion reads: “On ancient paths in an untouched landscape the organic farmhouse “Torraccia di Chiusi” an undiscovered gem.”  And Stefano and Donatella have a love and appreciation for the historical legacy they have inherited and are committed to preserving it for future generations.

        The Villa Bordoni was an elegant home with a formal garden and the food was what I would describe as Tuscan Gourmet.  But the farmhouse is different.  This is still a working farm and the setting is more rustic.  Bruno is not a formal chef, but a traditional Tuscan cook.  He bakes bread in an antique wood stove.  He has carefully researched ancient Etruscan and Medieval recipes.

        Each night we have enjoyed five-course meals beginning with an appetizer like bruschetta, a soup, a pasta, a main course (We have enjoyed pepper beef, roasted pork with a brown sugar glaze, and pork ribs) and a light dessert with the obligatory Grappa!  The food cooked in the farm kitchen also reflects the seasonal produce of the land.  

        We are staying at the spacious Eagle Owl Suite with a stunning view of San Gimignano across the valley.  Indeed, the scenery is so beautiful that we have commented we are living in a painting!  We truly feel that we are like family.  Stefano and Donatella were so happy to see us.   Bruno, who doesn’t speak English, as well.  Plus, the wonderful staff and of course, our dear Maria. 

        Maria had a delicious lunch waiting for us.   As we were enjoying lunch and catching up on family, she asked, “Is everything okay?”

        We told her that everything at La Torraccia di Chiusi was wonderful, but we had a problem.   We told her about the car.

        Maria was very sympathetic and understanding.  She told us that she does not even drive in Florence.   She asked to see a copy of my rental agreement. 

        Later that afternoon Maria had worked out a solution.  I can return the car to Siena without any additional charge.   That will be much easier than driving to Florence.  I plan to take the car back next Tuesday, then I will take a train back to Poggibonsi where Maria will have a driver waiting for me.   Next Wednesday we will have a driver take us to Florence so we will not have to drive in that exasperating city.  I knew Maria could work it out---and she did!

        We drove to San Gimignano on Tuesday.  We took our time strolling through the city known for its many towers.  We decided to visit the ancient Cathedral that was consecrated by Pope Eugenio III in 1142.  This cathedral is home to some of the greatest Italian frescoes in all of Tuscany, including some by the renown Renaissance master Ghirlandaio. 

        In Medieval times most people could not read, so the frescoes served as an educational tool to teach the stories of the Bible.  Almost all of the interior walls are covered with frescoes by Italian masters.  The left wall contains scenes from the Old Testament and the right wall from the New Testament.  By far the largest and most elaborate fresco is the Crucifixion.  We were not allowed to take photos, but we had audio guides that gave detailed information on each individual fresco.   We spent a lot of time reflecting on the majesty of these ancient works of art.  As Holy Week is approaching, standing in front of the magnificent fresco of the Crucifixion was a very moving experience.

        There were many groups of school children in the piazza.  It was obvious that it was a special day with performances and entertainment.  We found out later that the focus of the celebration was Autism awareness. 

        We found a little restaurant named Beppone off the beaten path with a kind and warm owner who welcomed us.  We had salad and Margherita Pizza that was advertised as authentic Naples pizza.  We found out that the owner was from Naples and he has a brother who operates a B&B there.   The pizza was excellent.

        On the way back to the farmhouse we stopped at the Bottega Torciano, which is owned by our friend, Pierluigi Giachi.  I will refer you to a blog I posted on November 2, 2017 titled: “Holy Wisdom Under the Tuscan Sky.”   I will never forget standing on the very top of Pierluigi’s tower in San Gimignano and recalling another trip we had made to Italy when we first met him.  I mentioned several of our friends who were on that trip, but are no longer with us:  Bill Delapp, Bob and Marge Team.   

        With tears in his eyes he placed his hand on my shoulder, looked at me and said, “Ray, we all live under the sky.  Every day is a gift.  We must “Carpe Diem” Seize the Day!”

        Joyce and I walked into the Bottega Torciano and guess who was there!   He saw Joyce first and jumped to his feet!  “My lady!”  Pierluigi was always the ladies’ man.   He seemed so happy to see us.  He remembered the group we had in October of 2017.   The next thing we knew he was bringing us food and pouring wine from his best bottles (80 Euros and more!). And he said, “These are my friends!   This is all on the house!”  And we had already had a generous lunch!

        We are planning to have lunch at his winery on Sunday.

        When we were planning for our group to come to the farmhouse in October of 2017, I asked Maria for a recommendation for a guide.  Without hesitation she suggested that I contact Marialuisa with “My Tuscan Wine and Tours.”   Marialuisa is a very well educated and gifted guide.  Her English is excellent.  Her family owns the Cesani winery that produces some delicious wines. 

        She did an outstanding job for us in 2017, so I contacted her again.  She was happy to hear from us and for two days Joyce and I have our private guide taking us on tours of Tuscany!   Being with Marialuisa is like being with family.  

        Our first stop was the ancient walled city of Volterra that sits high on a hill and is visible for miles in every direction.  Volterra also goes back to Etruscan times and there is an Etruscan Museum in the city.  It is known for its alabaster and there are dozens of shops specializing in beautiful alabaster products.  It has a gorgeous cathedral, also with beautiful frescoes, but it has been closed for renovation of over a year.  We did see the octagonal Baptistery and I was able to share with Marialuisa the significance of the eight sides (Eight people saved in the flood—Eight is the first day of new creation). 

        It was a cloudy, cool day—a few raindrops but we never opened our umbrellas—actually a perfect day for walking around the old city.   There are some breathtaking views from Volterra and on a clear, cloudless day you can see all the way to the Mediterranean. 

        After visiting Volterra, Marialuisa had a special treat in store for us---a sheep farm.   Located in the beautiful rolling hills of Tuscany, under the view of Volterra in the distance, you will find an expansive farm with 800 sheep—the Fattario Lischeto.   We were greeted by the gregarious owner, Giovanni, who along with his sister, Rosita, were happy to welcome us as family.  

        The farm has several apartments and they welcome artists and students from different countries.  We sat down in front of an inviting wood fire and enjoyed an absolutely delicious meal with various cheeses, but most especially the extraordinary Pecorino delle Balze Volterrane!   With salads, breads, and a delicious homemade organic pasta with wild boar, we enjoyed a delightful lunch with Marialuisa and Giovanni. 

        Marialuisa said that eating with them is like eating with family, and we found this to be true.  Giovanni came to the table with a slab of salted pork.  He said they had never done this before but had salted part of the back and now it was time to try it.  He cut the pork for the first time and shared it with us!   It reminded me of country ham, very tasty.  

        Giovanni has been a true entrepreneur when it comes to his cheeses.  He has organized a consortium of farmers and they are lobbying the government to establish strict regulations and standards for the production of cheese, much as they do their wine.   He also told us of a New York City food critic who named his Pecorino cheese the best in the world!   He was not bashful in sharing this with us!  That and the fact he just returned from Canada where he received even more international awards.   He was wearing a medal on his coat to prove it!

        He has a hearty laugh and a great personality to go with it.  When I was taking his picture with Marialuisa, he said “CHEESE!”

        Somehow in this conversation it was revealed that I am a storyteller and Joyce implied that I sometimes “exaggerate.”    Giovanni looked at me and said, “We are very similar!”

        After a long, leisurely lunch Marialuisa drove us back towards San Gimignano to her family winery, Cesani.  One day when we were touring back in 2017, I asked Marialuisa about the Second World War and she told me a powerful story.  Her great-grandfather left to go fight in the First World War and never returned.  Her great-grandmother raised her son praying that he would never see war, but as Marialuisa said, “He did not have a choice.  It was either go fight or be killed.”

        The family owned no land, had very little material resources.   They would have been the equivalent of sharecroppers in our society.  Her grandfather was captured by the Allies and became a POW.   The family did not know if he was dead or alive.  But he was very much alive.   An American Colonel made him his personal chef and driver.  When the war was over, the Colonel said to him, “I know you are a prisoner, but you have been of great service to me.  I am indebted to you for all you have done.” 

        The Colonel gave Mr. Cesani a generous sum of money.   With the money, he returned home and purchased the land that is today the Cesani winery.   It is truly a family operation with Marialuisa, her sister, and her mother and father who operate the business.  There are 9,000 olive trees and many acres of vineyards.

        Just before we reached the Cesani winery we drove past the family church.  Marialuisa told us that the church was completely destroyed in the Second World War.  The only thing that survived was a beautiful fresco of Mary.   The church has been rebuilt exactly as it was before the war.  The fresco of Mary is the centerpiece, of course.  And I wonder after hearing the story of the grandfather and the fresco of Mary surviving the war, if that might have had something to do with her being named, Marialuisa.  Family and tradition are the two values that have guided this family business.  Their mission is to enhance humanity and nature. 

        On the way to her winery, Marialuisa pointed out a tall hill in the distance.  One day towards the end of the Second World War, German soldiers rounded up all the men left in San Gimignano, young and old.  They marched them to the top of that hill and killed them---over 100 innocent men.  These were not soldiers.  They were grandfathers, fathers, brothers, husbands, and sons. 

        Tuscany is one of the most beautiful places on the face of the earth.  But as in the book of Genesis, the heart of man is continually evil.  Evil and hatred can destroy even the most beautiful scenes of God’s creation.  But thanks be to God there is the cross where all of the pain, the injustice, the inhumanity of evil man comes into focus as Jesus bears our pain and pays for our sins, and the beauty returns to God’s creation.

        Thursday has been windy and rainy, a perfect day to stay in the farmhouse and read and write.   Tomorrow, we have another day-long adventure with our friend, Marialuisa.

       

       

         

Life Is Stranger Than Fiction

        There is a scene in European Vacation where Clark Griswold is driving in London and he gets on a roundabout but he cannot get off.  Well, the story you are about to hear is not written for a movie—the story is true, and I have not changed any details to protect myself. 

        Friday dawned bright and beautiful in Turin.   Joyce and I enjoyed our last breakfast in the lavish breakfast room of the Turin Palace Hotel.  Our friendly waitress who cheerfully provided our Americano Coffee each morning wished us a warm, “Arrivederci!” as we departed.  

        The Turin Palace Hotel is right across the street from the main train station of Turin.  Our train was literally a few feet away from our room.  I’m the type of person who likes to be at the airport at least two hours or more before our flight, so Joyce was getting concerned when we had not left the room 45 minutes before our train was scheduled and I told her we had plenty of time.  At the train station you don’t have to check in, you don’t have to go through security, and you do not have to check your bags—in fact, you cannot check your bags, and that was our biggest concern at the beginning of the day. 

        We had packed for both warm and cold weather, so we have two large and one small suitcase.  In Europe, you must carry your bags on the train and store them over your seat.  There is a space at the end of the car for some luggage storage, but it is very limited.

        We walked out of our hotel and in less than five minutes we were standing in front of the big information board that announces arrivals and departures.  Our train was scheduled to leave at 9:25 a.m.  Our train was a “Trenitalia Frecciarossa,” formally known as the Eurostar.  It is Italy’s version of the high-speed train.  The English translation of Frecciarossa is red arrow.  We were scheduled to cover the 285 miles from Turin to Florence via Milan in 3 hours—and that included 5 stops!

        The Frecciarossas are very modern and sleek, with engines on both ends shaped like an aerodynamic bullet.  These trains stand in stark contrast to traditional trains, therefore we thought we were standing in front of our train which was parked on platform 18.  But you cannot make your way to the train until the platform is officially displayed on the board, which is normally 15 minutes before departure.

        We wanted to be one of the first ones to board to make sure we could find a place to store our luggage.  Unlike airlines where you board by groups, in Italy once the train platform is announced it is first come, first serve.  Our seats were in car 4.

        At 9:10 a.m. on the dot, platform 18 flashed on the board beside our train and we joined the multitudes making our way to the cars.  The majority of the people were in 2^nd class cars.  One other couple was in front of us waiting to board car 4, a “Prima” first-class car.  When the doors opened we grabbed our suitcases and walked up the steps into the car.  The luggage space was empty as this was the origination of this train and I quickly claimed the bottom half for my three bags.  It was so easy.   We made our way to our comfortable seats and precisely at 9:25 a.m. the train pulled out of the station. 

        Twice during our 3-hour journey attendants came by with a cart serving water, juice and snacks.  They even sold sandwiches.   The seats were very comfortable and could easily recline.  I had my laptop, working on Thursday’s journal.

        Once we got out of Turin, we increased speed.  When we reached 200 km/hr (124 mph) the speed was displayed at the front of the car.  We kept going faster.  220—240-260—280, all the way to 300 km/hr!  That is traveling at 186.4 miles per hour!   When the conductor (they call them managers in Italy) came by to scan our tickets, I told her we had never been on such a fast train.  “In the US,” I said, “Trains are slow and not usually on time!”  She smiled and seemed to enjoy the contrast.  We arrived in Florence at the main train station right on time.

        Everything was “Perfecto!”   But that was about to change!

        The car rental place was within walking distance from the train station.  After making only one wrong turn and asking for directions once, we walked into the office.  It only took a few minutes to process the paperwork.  The lady handed me a paper and said, there are two places on the car where damage has already been noted.  Then she walked me out front.  I assumed our car was parked on the street, but she pointed to a garage over a block away and said, “You walk there to get your car.”

        Several rental companies share this downtown garage.  We had rented our car though AAA.  It is a European company named Europcar.  The lady told me her colleague would be waiting for us.  There was one guy carefully washing a red Fiat that didn’t look large enough to hold our bags, much less us!   I gave him my papers and he pointed to a larger dark colored car and said, “This is your car.”  

        It was a Fiat sedan with a stick shift.  Now, we are used to someone walking around the car with us, pointing out any scratches or dents.  And they would make sure we knew how to open the gas cover and would show us any unusual things about the car, like how to put the car in reverse if you have to pull the gear shift up and over—but this guy just kept washing that little red car.  All he had said was, “That’s your car.” 

        I asked him where the keys were and he said, “In the car.”   

        I pulled the car up a few feet and loaded our luggage.   I adjusted the driver’s seat, the mirrors, and made sure I was comfortable with the gear shift.  Then we tried to load our destination, “Greve in Chianti,” in the Google Maps, but we could not get a signal in the parking deck.  We had a map the rental company had given us, so I asked Joyce if she was ready.  She was, so we started to pull out of the parking garage.  We drove and few feet and the car cut off.  

        “You need to give it more gas,” Joyce said. 

        I tried it again, this time with more gas.  It cut off a second time.  Not a good start.

        Finally, I pulled out of the parking deck and we were off to the races.  We were following the directions on the map. Traffic was heavy.  There was one place I turned left then needed to turn right quickly.  Scooters were flying past me, cars were not willing to let me in, finally at the turn I slowed and the car behind me started blowing the horn.  Somehow, I squeezed into the right lane and made the turn.   We were following the signs to Siena.  We also had a cellular signal and it was agreeing with the highway signs. We were moving out of the heavy downtown traffic and I was beginning to feel a little better about things.  Then we turned on the AC.   There was a terrible odor like something was burning.

        Then Joyce said, “Is that smoke coming out of the hood?”

        “No,” I said.  “It couldn’t be smoke.”

   We were moving faster now, but I started to notice people waving at us.  Friendly Italians!   Then, they were honking their horns.  The car behind me was flashing its lights.  I slowed down and they pulled beside us and rolled down the window.

        “Do you speak English?” they shouted.  “Your car is smoking very bad.  It may be on fire.”

        “Ray,” Joyce said. “If the car is on fire, don’t you think we ought to stop?”

        The only problem was there was nowhere to park.  After a short way, I pulled into the only open space I could find—a no parking zone beside a dumpster.

        We got out of the car and sure enough, smoke was pouring out from under the hood.  I found the map that had the Europcar number.  I dialed the number and got a recording.   About this time an Italian lady came up and saw the smoke.  She tried telling Joyce where a mechanic was located.  Mechanic was the only word we understood.  Joyce tried telling her that we only spoke English, but she kept talking.  Finally, I got a real person on the phone.

        I explained that we had just picked up the car from their downtown office in Florence and the car was smoking. 

        “Did you take off the brake?” the lady asked.

        “Yes, of course,” I said. 

        “Do you know how to use the clutch?   It may be the clutch.”  she added.

        I sure thought I knew how to drive with a clutch.   Then she said, “Wait a few minutes and if the smoke does not go away, call the emergency number on the key.”

        Is that the only help they can give me? I thought.  Wait until the smoke clears?

        “Maybe we should look under the hood,” Joyce said.

        I looked for the release for the hood, but could not find it.  Joyce got the owner’s manual, but guess what?  It was in Italian.  Finally, I gave up and said, “Even if we get the hood opened, what good would it do?  We wouldn’t know what we were looking at.”

        I was also concerned that I was parked in a no parking zone next to a dumpster.  I got in the car to back it up a little, but when I put it in what I thought was reserve, I went forward.   I tried it 3 times.   Now I was almost on the dumpster.

        “We’ve got to get the car pushed back,” I told Joyce as the Italian lady continued to chatter.

        “How?” she asked.

        “You get behind the wheel and I will push.”

        Joyce got behind the wheel and now I was pushing the rental car backwards because I couldn’t get it in reverse.  Meanwhile cars kept flying by and people were staring at us.   At least the car had not blown up.  It had stopped smoking.  

        We were supposed to be at a beautiful Villa in the Tuscan hills right now, sipping wine in the lovely gardens.  Instead, I’m pushing the rental car away from a dumpster because panicked bystanders thought our car was on fire and an Italian lady we can’t understand, can’t understand why we don’t go see the local mechanic.  This is not the way I had it planned.

        Finally, Joyce started the car and easily put it in reserve.

        “How did you do that?”  I asked.

        Joyce explained that she used to own a Fiat.  You always have to pull up on the gear shift before shifting into reverse.

        “Maybe you should be the one driving,” I said.  But Joyce quickly rejected that notion.

        “What should we do?” asked Joyce.

        “There’s only one thing I know to do,” I said.  “Let’s get in the car and drive.”

        “But what about the smoke?”

        “We will see what happens.”

        We both got in the car and decided to go somewhere besides where we were.  We could still smell the smoke, but we didn’t have any more trouble—at least not with the car. Our adventure was far from over.

        We finally got Google Maps working again and tried to follow the directions.   We pulled out on a main highway and the Google Map lady said, “Take the first exit on the right.”   

        “Where is it?” I asked.

        “You just passed it,” Joyce said.  

        Google Maps was trying to recalculate when I saw a sign for Siena.  I took the exit and followed the signs.  Finally, Google Maps kicked in again and we followed the directions for about 10 minutes.  It seemed we were taking every turn and every exit.  Finally, the Google Map lady said, “Take the first exit on the right.”   We were back at the same place we had been several minutes before.

“Where is the exit?” I asked.

“You just passed it, again!”  Joyce said. 

        We started the same slow circle and before long we were back again.   The Google Map lady said, “Take the first exit on the right.”

        “Where is that exit?” I asked.

        “You just missed it again!” Joyce said.  “Don’t you trust Google Maps.”

        “It’s not that,” I said.  “That dadgum exit just keep coming too fast.

        This time Google Maps kicked in quicker and the digital lady decided to route us a different way.   But the next thing I knew we were approaching a huge toll booth plaza, you know, the ones that fan out to about 15 or 20 lanes.  As we got closer I kept looking for the toll booth with a person, because I didn’t have any change and I didn’t know what the toll would be.  The problem was, all the gates were automated—not a single one was manned by a human!  Not knowing what to do, I slowed down and got as far to the left side as I possibly could.  I looked around but there was no way out.  The only thing to do would be to back up, backing against all of the 100s of cars and trucks flying into the toll plaza.   If I backed up several hundred feet, there would be an emergency turn around I could use. 

Hoping St. Christopher had not deserted me, I started to carefully back the car (true confession, Joyce is still having to show me how to put it in reverse) as I watched cars and trucks swerving to miss me in the backup camera.  Having finally backed up enough to turn into the emergency lane, I moved forward until I was headed in the opposite direction.  I noticed several policemen watching me closely as I joined the traffic leaving the toll plaza from the opposite direction. 

        We listened closely as the Google Map lady had us turning here, then there, then going up one ramp, then another.   After about 15 or 20 minutes I said, “Look!”

We were back at the same toll plaza!  This time I pulled into the emergency turn around and stopped.  Several policemen were staring at us. 

Joyce rolled down the window and cried, “Help!”

A policeman walked over to the car and Joyce said, “English.”

He called to another policeman. 

 A nice pleasant policeman walked up to the car, leaned down and said, “Little English. How can I be of service?”

        We explained that we were trying to go to Greve in Chianti but were just going around in circles.   He said not to worry he could help us.  He told us to get on the toll road (which is what the Google lady had been trying to get us to do for the last 45 minutes) and go until we saw the Florence/Siena exit.   Then he said that we should see signs for Greve in Chianti.  

        “I have one more question,” I said.  “How do you go through that toll booth.  There is no one to take your money and I have not easy pass.”

        “That is because you do not pay now.  You pay when you exit.  All you do is collect the ticket.”

        Thanking the officer profusely and feeling very much like Clark Griswold, we joined the cars in the lanes of the toll plaza and collected a ticket.  As we picked up speed down the highway, the Google lady sounded relieved!

        When we reached our exit, we went to the exit toll plaza, but again there was no human on duty.  I became concerned when we pulled up at the machine and inserted the ticket.  We owed 2 Euros and the sign said “Coins Only.”   But then I saw a place to insert a bill.  I sent a 5 thought the slot and received 3 Euros in change.  The gate opened and we drove through.  Soon we saw a sign that read: “Greve in Chianti!”

        We followed the signs and the Google lady.  Only once did they not agree and we followed the Google lady.  Soon we were driving into Greve in Chianti. 

        Our destination was the Villa Bordoni.  They had a notice on their web site not to follow your GPS once you enter Greve.  So we turned off our friend from Google Maps and followed the written directions.

        The Villa Bordoni is one of the most beautiful Villas in Tuscany.  It is a “Patrician Villa”—the former country home of the Bordonis, a family of wealthy merchants from the city of Florence.  But the origins of this amazing structure go back to the 11^th century, over a 1,000 years ago! 

        Long before Italy was a unified nation, Italy was ruled by different city states that were frequently at war with each other.  Two of the fiercest rivals were Florence and Siena, and the valley of the river Greve was right in the middle.  Over 1,000 years ago a stone tower with a dungeon was constructed.  The tower was a fortress with thick walls and arrow slits.  The dungeon was to hold prisoners of war.  As time went on alliances were made and a farmhouse was attached to the tower. 

        In the 17^th century this “casa colonica” was purchased by the wealthy Bordoni family from Florence and slowly transformed into a Villa for their summer home, with it stucco façade and Italian Garden. (The beautiful garden continues to this day and I am sitting in the garden as I write this on a picture, perfect Sunday morning).

        During the 18^th century Giuseppe Bordoni made the Villa his permanent residence, invested heavily in the vineyards, and in 1782 started producing the renowned Chianti Classico, taking the name of “Mezzuola.”

        The Bordoni family continued to own the property and produce the famous wine until the Second World War.   After the war the heiress of the property married a painter of “dubious talents” and he dwindled the family fortune paying for expensive exhibitions all over Europe.  The final member of the Bordoni family vacated the house in 1997.  

        After three years of extensive renovations, the Villa opened to the public in 2005.  In 2006 and 2007 it was voted one of the “Best New Hotels in the World” by Conde Nast Traveler.”  In 2010 Reuters listed the Villa Bordoni as one the “10 most romantic hotels in the world.”  

        We are staying in a Junior Suite, that overlooks the olive groves and distant Tuscan hills.  There is a comfortable king size bed and a separate mezzanine level with a day bed.  The bathroom is spacious and luxurious with a walk-in shower with hydro massage jets. 

        The dining room is located in the original 1,000 year-old tower.  A wood fire warmed the room.  The room is small, only tables for 16 people.  The tables were covered with linen tablecloths and candles were burning.  The first night we enjoyed Wild Boar Ragu with Rabbit as the main course.  The second night we enjoyed a Lamb Gnocchi with Guinea as the main course.

        We have walked through the beautiful gardens and olive groves.  We have rested, read, and meditated.  The days are warm and sunny.   Sitting in the garden is most serene and peaceful----except we now have a problem.

        We have met some wonderful people who are staying here.  A couple from New Jersey, another from Arizona, and a newlywed couple from California—he has an uncle in Polk County, North Carolina.  But yesterday, a couple from Germany appeared at lunch.  She is very tall, nice and quiet.  But he is big, loud, and obnoxious.  All he does is talk—very loudly.  And this morning, as I was hoping to have a quiet time in the garden, all I can hear was his loud rantings on politics.  I think he is a radical.  I do not want to engage in conversation with him.  

        It is an example of what is wrong with the world.  Most people are kind and gracious, level headed, understanding and compassionate.  Most people are tolerant and accepting of those who are different.   But one person with radical ideas and a loud voice can create problems for everyone. 

        World travel is one of the most important ways to experience different cultures and meet people of different faiths.  If more of our young people could travel internationally they would learn that the world is one big family and we must learn to respect each other and live together in understanding and peace. 

        We will enjoy one more day and night at the Vila Bordoni, then we travel to our home away from home, the Torraccia di Chiusi outside of San Gimignano, our beloved farmhouse.