The wonderful thing about a German Rail Pass is that you can go anywhere you want to go in Germany, but they didn’t promise it would be easy. When Joyce and I were on Sabbatical in 2010 we purchased a Eurail Pass. We started our Sabbatical in Lucerne, Switzerland and then traveled by rail into Italy where we went to Como, Parma, Bologno, Florence and the Chinque Terre by rail. We then took the train from Monterosso al Mare to Perugia where we rented a car. I didn’t have quite the scintillating experience we had in Italy this year, but the car rental guy in Perugia ended up charging me double from what I had been quoted. (He made a big deal of throwing in the GPS, free of charge!) I realized when I turned the car in that I would not win an argument with him, so I waited until I got home and took it up with the rental car company. Thankfully, I had my documentation and was promptly refunded my money. And the GPS was still free of charge!
Shortly before we left home in 2010 I was reading more details about the Eurail pass and saw that some trains needed to be reserved in advance, even though you have a pass. I saw that our first train from Lucerne to Como was a reserved train. I panicked, contacted Eurail, paid for two reserved seats, and also had the reserved seat passes expressed mail to me by Fed Ex. It was the day before we left to fly to Switzerland and the passes had not arrived. I called Fed Ex and was told that they had been delivered. I told them they had not.
They said, “Yes, they have.”
“Well,” I said. “I’m at 201 West Third Avenue (the church address), someone has been here all day, and we have not received a Fed Ex package.”
I explained that I was leaving for Europe in the morning and really needed that package. They contacted the driver and for some unknown reason, he had delivered the package to a house down the street from the church. I drove to the house, went to the front door and knocked. I could hear people inside. Apparently, a large Hispanic family lived there. But they would not come to the door. I don’t know who they thought I was or what they planned to do with two European rail passes that required a Passport and a validated Eurail Pass, but it quickly became apparent they had no intention of giving it back.
When we arrived in Lucerne I went to the train station and explained our dilemma to an agent. He was very helpful and friendly and said, “You don’t need a reserved seat to go to Como. I can put you on another train, it is not as fast, but it is a much more scenic route. He was absolutely right. We had a breathtaking and unforgettable train journey through the majestic Alps. And, when I got home, Fed Ex refunded my money for the two reserved seats. Wonder what that Hispanic family ever did with those reserved seats?
The big difference in 2010 was that before each trip, I went to the train station, worked out an itinerary with an agent and purchased reserved seats when necessary. When we had a tight connection, we had to get off the train, find an information screen, and then find our way to the platform to catch our next train. We never knew when we got off a train on which platform we were arriving, or which platform the next train was scheduled to depart. There was one time that we had to descend the stairs to go into the underground passage and then climb up to the departure platform. When we got on the platform the train was pulling out of the station. I started running, then Joyce started running. The conductor was standing on the back of the train, urging us to jump onboard. We literally jumped on the moving train as it pulled out of the station. Joyce told me she was not doing that anymore!
But with my German Rail Pass, all I need is a DB
Navigator App. I put in our station of
origin and our destination and it gives all the options. The App gives us the schedule, the platform
on which our train will arrive and the platform from which the next train will
depart, how much time is between the trains, and exactly how much time it will take
to walk from platform to another.
Going from Munich to Salzburg was easy. There is one train leaving every hour. But going from Salzburg to Rothenburg would be a little more complicated. Here is the schedule: depart Salzburg at 10 a.m. arrive in Munich at 12:06 p.m. depart Munich at 12:21. arrive in Nurnberg at 13:30. depart Nurnberg at 13:40. arrive in Ansbach at 14:06 depart Ansbach at 14:10. arrive in Steinbach at 14:32. depart Steinbach at 14:36. arrive in Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber at 14:50.
I don’t know if you noticed, but we only had 4 minutes to change trains in Steinbach and Ansbach, 10 minutes in Nurnberg (We call it Nuremburg) and 15 minutes in Munich. This was assuming every train would be on time.
Every train was on time. The only snafu was in Munich when we boarded the train to Nurnberg. Remember that the agent told me there was no need to reserve a train----well, I think he was wrong. We boarded a first-class car and found two seats. A few minutes later a couple boarded and informed us that we had their seats. I found the conductor and told him that we had rail passes, but had not reserved a seat. He said, “You must find a seat that is not reserved.”
We changed cars and found two seats that were unoccupied. There seemed to be a lot of empty seats on this car. When the conductor came by, he asked how far we were going. Apparently, the two seats we were in had been reserved, but after he checked his computer he said that we were okay. They were reserved, but not until after Nurnberg.
The challenge came with the two train stations where we only had four minutes between trains. We were fortunate in Ansbach. We got off the train and our next train was on the adjoining track, same platform. We simply walked off one train and walked onto another.
But Steinbach required us to walk down a flight of stairs, carrying our luggage, and walk up another flight. Thankfully, there was a conveyor belt on which you placed your bags. While you walked up the steps, your bags came up automatically.
We made it! We didn’t miss a single connection and
precisely at 14:50 p.m. on Sunday afternoon, we arrived in Rothenburg Ob Der
Tauber at the train station.
No trip to Germany is complete without a visit to Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber. We first visited here on our 2000 Oberammergau trip, but we only stayed one night and I had always wanted to come back and stay longer. After our exhilarating hop-on, hop-off train crusade, we arrived at the little train station and looked for the promised taxis. There were none, so I turned on Google Maps and we walked a few blocks and then entered the Rodor-Tor gate into the best-preserved Medieval City in all of Germany. It was just a short walk through this fairy-tale village before we reached one of the most beautiful gateways, the Roeder Arch and Markus Tower. They date back to around 1200 AD.
In 1264 AD a small tollhouse and a lodge providing shelter for travelers was built next to the arch and Markus Tower. We are staying in this lodge, now over 750 years old! Today it is known as the elegant Romantik Hotel Markusturm.
This is one of the most unique and lovely places we have ever stayed. The Berger family, who own and operate this lovely, historical property, have done a masterful job in preserving the historical character while providing all the modern conveniences and ambience to create a charming and inviting hotel. The old structure is full of priceless antiques, old artifacts, rich paintings, and lovely furnishings. There is a display case of centuries-old locks, keys, and hinges. You will find hidden alcoves full of beer steins, exquisite lace, vases, porcelain, and old fabrics. You will see old chests, medieval weapons, a grandfather clock, an antique rocking horse and even an antique baby carriage. The grand old winding staircase creaks as you walk on it, but is still elegant after centuries of use.
When we walked into our beautiful suite we were spellbound. Three large windows open to the cobblestone street below providing fresh air. There is a gorgeous, four poster canopy bed with a solid, wood canopy. There is a comfortable couch, a day bed, modern lighting, and an inlaid wooden floor. We walked into the bath with a rock wall, recessed lighting, a full-size, free-standing tub and a huge walk-in shower! A small hotel room could fit into this bath.
The dining room is elegant and stately. Fresh-cut roses adorn the tables, always with starched white linen tablecloths. There is rich, wooden paneling. The food is the best we have tasted in Germany. The wine is stored in their 700 year-old wine-cellar and they even make their own beer. And the service! Any great restaurant or hotel is ultimately defined by the human touch. Everyone is kind, friendly, helpful, and they go out of their way to make sure you have the very best. I went downstairs the first morning and asked the man in the kitchen if I could have two cups of coffee, one black and one with cream and sugar. He asked where I was from and when I said, “North Carolina in the States,” he said, “Oh, yes. Raleigh is the capital.”
I found out later than the man in the kitchen was Mr. Berger, the owner. The second morning when I went down to get coffee he immediately said, “Two coffees—one black and the other with cream and sugar.” He fixed the coffees and handed them to me on a tray. That is attention to detail!
Monday was a beautiful day and we decided to take a city tour. Rather than join a group or hire a guide, we downloaded Rick Steves Europe Travel App and followed his Rothenburg Audio Town Walk tour. His excellent commentary gives you many details you would certainly miss, and you can go at your own pace.
There is no doubt that the highlight of the tour was the majestic St. Jakob’s Church. This magnificent cathedral was built in the 14th century and became Lutheran in 1544. The church was named for Saint James of the Bible because Rothenberg was on the Camino de Santiago, a medieval pilgrims’ route to Spain where it is thought St. James’ remains are entombed.
The stained-glass windows behind the altar are stunning. The main altar itself has a dramatic carving of Christ and six saints. There is a painted scene of the Last Supper. The most unusual thing about this representation of the Last Supper is that Saint Peter is wearing eye-glasses!
There are two windows that depict the Reformation. One is the Martin Luther window that includes images of John Wycliff and Jan Huss. The other window is the Philip Melanchthon window, honoring another great reformer who worked with Luther.
But without question, the most powerful sight in the church and the artistic highlight of Rothenburg and perhaps the most spectacular wood carving in all of Germany is the 500-year-old, 35 foot-high Altar of the Holy Blood. This is the masterpiece of Tilman Riemenschneider, the Michelangelo of German woodcarvers. This was designed to hold a rock-crystal capsule that supposedly contains a drop of Christ’s holy blood.
The main focus of the carving is the Last Supper. The attention to detail in the face, the hands, even the hair of Jesus and the disciples is astounding. I found the most remarkable feature of this glorious carving to be the fact that Judas is at the center of the table. The scene depicts the moment when Jesus hands Judas the bread, identifying him as the one who would betray him. Judas is holding a money bag in his hands.
The Judas in this carving is made so that during Holy Week, Judas can be removed from Thursday night until Easter Sunday morning. The fact that Judas is the center of this carving, not John, not Peter, nor the others, but Judas as the betrayer, speaks of forgiveness. Seeing this amazing carving was a true highlight of the day!
Monday afternoon we walked the wall! The ancient wall that still surrounds the Old City is a highlight of a trip to Rothenburg. You can walk about a mile and ½. While some parts of the wall are impassable, most of the old city wall can be accessed for a fun-filled stroll with fantastic views of this magical city. You can climb to the top of the Roder-Tor tower. It costs 2 Euros but is well worth the effort and the expense. The views are fantastic.
At the top of the tower there is a display of the bombing of Rothenburg. This beautiful city had been spared for most of the war, but on March 31, 1945, just days before the war ended, the Allies bombed Rothenburg with 16 planes, killing 37 people, destroying 306 houses, six public buildings, nine ancient watchtowers and over 2,000 feet of the medieval wall. The display stated that Rothenberg provided no military or industrial advantage for the Germans and the only reason it was bombed so close to the war’s end was to break the morale of the German people.
Joyce and I saw this and we were heartsick. Why would we bomb this beautiful city without any reason? Why would we destroy centuries of history when it provided no military advantage? Why would the United States of America engage in such an inhumane and senseless act—killing innocent people just to prove a point? This is not who we are as Americans.
But later that night we heard “the rest of the story.”
Rick Steves calls the Night Watchman’s Tour of Rothenburg “flat-out the most entertaining hour of medieval wonder anywhere in Germany.” Monday night was very pleasant, so we walked over to the Market Square after dinner and joined over a hundred or so of our friends, all willing to pay 8 Euros for the best evening activity in town. Mrs. Berger told us that the Night Watchman, Hans-Georg Baumgartner, had become a very wealthy man with his nightly tour, not to mention his personal DVD that he promotes. Of course, if Rick Steves gives you such a glowing endorsement, you are bound to be successful. Sunday afternoon we saw dozens of people lined up at an ice cream shop. On the sign it read, “Recommended by Rick Steves.” Other ice cream shops had no lines.
The entertaining tour was well worth the 8 Euros. The tour is in English and the Night Watchman is quite the entertainer. While it is light-hearted and full of humor, it is also a great historical overview of this enchanting city. Rothenburg was a “free imperial city” beholden to only the Holy Roman Emperor. From 1150 to 1400 this city thrived with a population of over 6,000. But the Thirty Years War and the plague that followed did the town in.
The Night Watchman did a great job telling the history and explaining the plague that killed 50% of Europe’s population in 5 years. He talked about the rats that carried the deadly plague. The people of Rothenburg were required to have at least one year’s supply of grain stored in their houses, usually in their attics, in case an enemy would lay a siege on the village. This attracted rats as well as the unsanitary streets and a lack of waste disposal. The first people to usually die of the plague were the doctors and the priests, since they had the most direct contact with the sick. Without a priest to administer the last rites, people were dying in a hopeless condition without an opportunity to confess their sins.
He also talked about the Thirty Years War. There is a fanciful story that before the Catholic Army was about to conquer Rothenburg, it was customary that the mayor provide the conquering general a welcome drink. The general drank his wine and feeling quite well and happy now, offered a deal for the mayor. The general supposedly said, “If you can drink this entire 3-liter tankard of wine in one gulp, I will spare Rothenburg.”
According to the legend, the mayor turned up his glass and amazed everyone by drinking all of the wine in one gulp! The town was saved.
Every hour on the hour at the 1466 clock tower, you can see this scene re-enacted. Following the chiming of the hour, two windows on either side of the clock open and you see the general on one side and the mayor on the other. The mayor turns up his glass and after a long time, finally puts it down. People cheer. The town is saved. The only problem was, it never happened. The Catholic Army took the town and plundered it. Then came the plague. Rothenburg never recovered until the middle of the nineteenth century when it started to become a popular tourist destination.
Toward the end of the tour, the Night Watchman talked about World War II. I thought he was about to tell how the Allies had transcended the boundaries of decency and civility by mercilessly bombing the city at the end of the war, but he told an entirely different story.
Hitler had ordered that no German officer should ever surrender for any reason. Even though he knew, and all of the German army knew the war was lost, Hitler ordered that every soldier and every town fight to the end, even if it meant total destruction.
As the war was reaching its end, the Allies were bombing Nuremberg into oblivion. A German Army division lead by SS General Simon retreated and found shelter in Rothenburg. He was essentially using the Medieval city and the people as shields, daring the Allies to do anything about it. This is why the Allies bombed the city, because a large part of the German army was hiding here.
After the bombing raid on March 31, the allies planned to capture and destroy the city of Rothenburg in order to drive out the German army, but this is when everything changed.
John Jay McCloy was an American lawyer and a presidential advisor to FDR during the war. In 1945 he was serving as the United States Assistant Secretary of War. Before the First World War, McCloy’s mother had visited Rothenburg as a tourist and fell in love with this enchanting city. She purchased a painting of Rothenburg that hung in the McCloy home.
When McCloy heard the plans to destroy the city, he remembered the beautiful painting from his childhood and recalled how much his mother loved the city of Rothenburg. He intervened and ordered General Jacob Devers not to use artillery to take the city.
As a result of his orders, six US Soldiers were sent into Rothenburg carrying a white flag. One of the soldiers, who spoke fluent German, communicated the demand for the Germans to either surrender or the town would be destroyed. SS General Simon was not in the town and would not have surrendered, but the ranking Military commander Major Thommes decided to ignore Hitler’s orders, knowing that he could be executed for treason, and he gave up the town. Rothenburg was saved.
Because of his heroic actions, John McCloy was awarded an honorary citizen of Rothenburg in 1948. Major Thommes was never punished for his decision to surrender. People from all over the world contributed to rebuild the town from the destruction of the March 31 bombings. As you walk the wall you will see their names the city and country they are from. Many people from the US have made contributions.
When you think of Germany you think of Christmas. The German Christmas markets are known all over the world. Rothenburg is home to the German Christmas Museum where you learn the history of Christmas decorations. You also learn about the evolution of Saint Nickolas and Father Christmas. It was an interesting experience, but when you emerge from the museum you are in the greatest Christmas store in the whole wide world, the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Headquarters. The store in itself is amazing with hundreds of decorated trees. Our favorite part was the hand carved, hand painted wooden Christmas ornaments. They are expensive, but will be collector’s items for years to come.
We did some serious shopping, then found a little restaurant where we enjoyed some Asparagus Cream Soup. In the morning we are on the road—or more exactly, on the rails again. Our destination is Wittenberg, home to Martin Luther and the Reformation. By the way, our next hotel dates back to 1391. It is one of the oldest buildings in Wittenberg. Luther dined there. Kings stayed there. Our room looks out over the famous chapel doors where 500 years ago Martin Luther started a revolution. I can’t wait!
Looks like we will be hopping on and off trains
again. I will keep you posted!
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