Positano

        It was sad to say good-bye to lovely Sorrento.  We had come to know and love this charming city, a city where we could easily return.  The wonderful staff at the Palazzo Montefusco said heartfelt farewells and promises to meet again as Angela helped us carry our luggage to the Piazza.  Our driver was waiting for us.  

        When I was planning for the trip, I did have enough sense to know I shouldn’t drive on the Amalfi Coast, and today as our driver whisked us around the hairpin curves on the road to Positano, I understood why.  That and the fact that parking is almost impossible. 

        We are still 2 or 3 weeks away from the start of the “high” season in Positano.  But that doesn’t mean it is not crowded.  Summertime can bring oppressive heat and huge crowds of tourists. 

        Our hotel, the lovely Hotel Villa Gabrisa was recommended to us by Kathy Evitts at Dehoney Travel.  The best way to describe this hotel is simply “extravagant.”   We have a lovely room with so many gadgets that we don’t understand them all.  All I know is that when you walk into the bathroom the toilet lid automatically raises!  And you don’t need a night light because, well . . . the toilet bowl is lighted! These rooms were just renovated two months ago so they are practically new.  We have a large balcony overlooking the magnificent Tryennien Sea.  The Tryennien Sea encompasses the western coast of Italy, from north of Rome to Sicily, where our son Knight was stationed a number of years ago. The city itself is nestled on the side of a mountain cascading down to the water.  There is only one street in Positano that allows traffic—all of the rest are steep stairs and lanes for pedestrians.  

        Our room was not ready when we arrived and the friendly young lady at the desk suggested that we walk down the steps to the downtown area.  She recommended a local bar and grill with a breathtaking view of the city.  Getting there proved to be a unique challenge.  We descended down 133 steps to the one-way street that was busy with cars, mini-buses, and scooters.  We continued to walk down, and down and down until we reached the heart of Positano.   After taking a couple of wrong turns, we started going up, and up, and up!   I finally told Joyce to wait and let me go ahead and see if there actually was a bar and grill.  There was.  We finally made it.  The food was good and the view was spectacular.  But there was no way we were going to walk back up to the hotel.  Our waiter called a taxi.

        Our host at the hotel recommended a restaurant for our meal tonight—the La Taverna Del Leone. 

        Our taxi picked us up at 6:45.  Our driver was quite the animated Italian, talking about how happy he was he was away from his wife!   Joyce asked him if he loved her.  “Yes,” he said.  “When she is asleep!”

        He was excited that we were going to the La Taverna Del Leone.  Once we got there, we were also excited!   This was another memorable, amazing meal.   We were greeted by the head waiter who called us by name.  He immediately made us feel like family.   He seated us at a choice table where we could watch the chefs preparing the meals. The kitchen was open, warm and inviting. 

        There was also a smaller kitchen with a brick oven where a “nonna” was making pizza.  We know she was a “nonna” because her family came to eat and she greeted each grandchild with a big and cheerful hug.  Her apron was adorned with flour and now the grandchildren were adorned with flour too!

        Our waiter recommended the lamb that had been simmering for 24 hours—another spot-on recommendation.  You could cut the lamb with your fork and it would melt in your mouth.  

        As we enjoyed our meal we kept watching people come for pizza.   We commented on this to our waiter who told us that the “nonna’s” pizza was exceptional.  Joyce then told him about our quest to find a Margherita Pizza like the one we had in Naples years ago.   A few minutes later a complimentary mini-Margherita Pizza was sitting on our table.  One bite and we knew—we had found it!

        We said good night with a promise to return on Monday.   Our driver picked us up and was anxious to hear how we enjoyed our experience!  It was another night to remember.

        The hotel provides a good breakfast which we enjoyed sitting outside overlooking the water.  It was Sunday morning and church bells were ringing.  It was also so peaceful and quiet.   It has been a long time since I have enjoyed a peaceful Sunday morning without worrying about putting the finishing touches on a sermon, making sure I had all the announcements I was supposed to make, checking to see if the batteries in the wireless needed changing, etc. etc----I was finally able to take a true “Sabbath” day.  

        Many places close in Positano for the low season.  As someone explained, this is not like a tropical island where the temperature is warm year-round.  Winters can get cold and nasty.  Many hotels and restaurants close for the off season.  While our hotel is open all year, their restaurant will not reopen for three more weeks.   There is really not a lot to do here, unless you just want to rest and relax and go for challenging walks---which is what we came to do.

        We stayed in our hotel most of the day with our balcony open overlooking the sea.   It is truly an incredible and thrilling sight.  It reminds me of the time we went to Niagara Falls.  The view from our hotel room was so sensational that we spent most of our time in the room simply admiring the view.  As we look out from our scenic balcony over the sea, we know why the Amalfi Coast is one of the world’s most popular tourist destinations. 

        Our host recommended another restaurant for tonight, the Il Ritrov.  It had also been closed for the low season, but had just reopened the night before.  They sent a shuttle to our hotel to pick us up and the ride to the top of the mountain where the restaurant is located was breathtaking.  As we climbed higher and higher, Positano appeared below us like a magical painting.  We finally arrived at the top and were greeted warmly by the owner who seated us at a choice corner table looking out over the mountain.  

        We were about to experience another culinary adventure.   This time, Joyce really stepped out on faith and ordered Octopus.   I don’t what Octopus is supposed to taste like, but this wasn’t what I expected.  It certainly was not slimy and fishy.  It had the texture of chicken.  It had a light taste and was quite good. 

        We ended our dinner with a chocolate soufflé that did not disappoint!  Several people joined us for the shuttle back into town.  Two of the ladies were from New Zealand, from the same town where the mass shooting took place.  In fact, one of the ladies said her children had been in lockdown during the shooting. 

        Tonight our plans are to go back to the La Taverna Del Leone where we can’t wait for our “nonna” to prepare delicious pizza!   Tomorrow morning we say good-bye to beautiful Positano and fly north to Turin.