A Mighty Fortress: Wittenberg

This Sabbatical has been a treasure of historical gems.  We have done more than visit great and inspiring historical sites, we have immersed ourselves in history by living in unbelievable historical homes.  We stayed in an exquisite Italian Villa that is over 1,000 years old.   We returned to our beloved farmhouse on the famed Via Francigena that the Archbishop of Canterbury visited in 990 AD. 

        We stayed in a Medieval hotel in Rothenburg that started as a tollhouse in 1264 AD.  But we were about to experience the most amazing historical setting of all, for our little hotel in Wittenberg was not just a witness to the Reformation, it played a leading role!

        We took a taxi Wednesday morning to the little train station in Rothenburg.  Our trip to Wittenberg included two very tight connections, but we didn’t have quite the drama that we had getting to Rothenburg.

        The short trip from Rothenburg to Steinach has two stops, but the train only stops if people are waiting.  Since no one was waiting at either station, the train kept going and we arrived in Steinach early.  This gave us six minutes, rather than four, for us to move from platform 5 to 3.  We were actually standing by the track at platform 3 before the train to Ansbach arrived.  We had another four-minute window in Ansbach to catch the train to Nurnberg, but when we arrived at the Ansbach station we learned that the Nurnberg train was actually running late.

        We waited for 20 minutes before it finally arrived.  We originally had 48 minutes in Nurnberg before catching the high-speed train to Wittenberg, now we had 28 minutes.  I felt like I better reserve us some seats, but when I went into the room where the agents were located, there was a long line.  Everyone takes a number like you do at the doctor’s office.  But since I had first-class tickets, my number came up next and the friendly agent told me there were only 7 more seats left on the train in first class.  I paid her 12 Euros to reserve two of those remaining seats and we went to the platform to catch the ICE train that pulled in precisely on time. 

        Two and ½ hours later we got off the train in Wittenberg, found a taxi and went to the “Alte Canzley Hotel.”  I reserved our room almost a year and ½ ago.  This lovely little hotel only has nine rooms, each one named after a great reformer.  Our room, quite appropriately, is the Martin Luther King Room. 

You may recall the story that when the great 20^th Century reformer was born, his name was Michael King, Jr.  His father, the Rev. Michael King, Sr, (Daddy King), made a pilgrimage with other ministers to the Holy Land in the 1930s.  On the way back, they attended the Baptist World Alliance that was meeting in Berlin.  One day they decided to take a trip to Wittenberg and see where Martin Luther started the Reformation.  Dr. King, Sr., was so inspired by visiting Wittenberg that when he returned home he changed his name, and his son’s name, to Martin Luther King. 

        We walked into our room and dropped our jaws.  This is the largest hotel room we have ever seen!  It is actually like a small apartment.  There are four windows facing the street.  When we look out of our hotel windows, we see the doors of Castle Church where Martin Luther nailed the 95 Theses on October 31, 1517!   But this old house predates the Reformation by over 125 years!  When Columbus “Sailed the Ocean Blue in 1492” this house was already a hundred years old.

It is named “Alte Canzley” which means “Old Chancellery” because for centuries this house had been the residence of powerful Saxon Kings residing in Wittenberg.  Fredrick the Wise, who played such a key role in the Reformation and was actually appointed “Holy Roman Emperor” (but declined to serve due to his age) lived here.  If Fredrick the Wise had not protected Martin Luther, Luther would have never survived and we would have never heard his name.

As recently as the 500^th anniversary of the Reformation two years ago, Royalty from Sweden stayed here at the Alte Canzley.

This is one of the oldest buildings in Wittenberg.  Most significant to the Reformation is that in 1521, just four years after the 95 Theses, Chancellor Justus Jonas, moved into this spacious home.  He was a key figure in the Reformation along with Luther and Melanchthon.  As a master of Latin and Greek, he helped Luther with his final edition of the German translation of the Bible, a feat that is as important to Western history as the Reformation itself.

Luther, Melanchthon, Jonas, and other key leaders in the Reformation met at this house often.  They dined here and discussed theology and important developments in the ongoing dispute with Rome.  As I said, this house was not just a witness to the Reformation, it was part of it!  And we are staying here!  Waking up to look out our window on the doors to the Castle Church where Luther nailed the 95 Theses—wow!  It can be argued that the pivotal event in Western Civilization, the most significant event in the last 1,000 years, took place outside of our window and this house was a major part of it!   Oh my!   I can’t believe where we are staying!   I’m like a kid in a candy shop!

But before we disappeared completely into the sixteenth century, we were brought back to the twenty-first century when our host excitedly informed us that there was a big musical festival in town.  A number of different groups were playing at different venues around Wittenberg this night, including a group at the Alte Canzley.  There is a garden with a stage behind the hotel.  The group that was playing here is named Jakkle.  They play jazz, swing music, and rock n’ roll.  They said they would play “Old school music that makes you dance!”

When we opened the back window that is right beside our bed, we can see the outdoor garden and the stage.  But first, we had a delicious German meal in the same dining room where Martin Luther, Justus Jonas, Philip Melanchthon, and others huddled to exchange revolutionary ideas. 

Then we went upstairs to the second floor to our room.  We opened the window and listened to the music, watching the crowd below.  It was a cool evening and there was a fire around which everyone gathered.  The band was quite good---I’m not sure how long they played because I went to sleep.  But I’ve decided that is the best way to attend a concert.  Get a hotel room over the venue so you can rest and relax while the band plays on!

We spent all day Thursday immersing ourselves in Reformation history in the city of Wittenberg.  It was another gorgeous, cloudless day.  When I woke up early Thursday morning the Castle Church and its massive tower were glowing in the bright, morning light.  The morning temperature was 39 degrees, but it warmed up quickly to make a lovely day.

After breakfast, Joyce and I walked through the old city of Wittenberg on our way to the Lutherhaus.  The city was almost deserted because this day is Ascension Day which is a holiday in Germany.  (That explains why they had the big music festival the night before.).

Wittenberg is a beautiful city and it is evident they went all out to improve the city and spruce things up for the 500^th Anniversary of the Reformation back in 2017.  It is clean and attractive.  The sidewalks and streets are wide and made for easy walking.  You can easily walk from one end of town to the other in around 20 minutes.

We stopped in the Markplatz with its Renaissance Rathous.  In the center of the square stands Martin Luther holding a Bible.  To his right you will find Philip Melanchton, his brainy colleague.  We kept walking to the end of the street where we entered the Lutherhaus.  We were fortunate that very few people were there.  For most of the tour we were by ourselves. 

This huge “house” was originally a monastery.  In fact, Luther lived there when he first came to Wittenberg.  After Luther had been officially excommunicated and the Reformation was becoming a reality, he married Katharina von Bora, his “dear Katie.”  The building was given to Luther as a wedding gift by one of the prince electors who was protecting him.  There is a statue of Katharina in the courtyard.  Luther turned all the responsibilities of the house over to her.  She rented out rooms to students and other guests, planted gardens, bred cattle, and brewed what Martin called, “the best beer in all of Germany.” At dinner each night in the refectory, Luther would lead the discussions.  These spirited conversations would often continue after dinner in the ”Lutherstube” where students would often take notes on what Luther would say.  After his death, these were published as Luther’s “Table Talks.”

This may be the best museum on Martin Luther and the Reformation anywhere.  Even though we will be back in Wittenberg for a day next week while we are on our Viking Cruise, I wanted to be able to spend much more time here.  The museum has some remarkable historical items.  There is an indulgence chest and an original letter of indulgence.  There is an original letter that Luther wrote to the Emperor after the Diet of Worms explaining his epic refusal to recant and also thanking the Emperor for his safety. We saw Luther’s pulpit from the Town Church of St. Mary, where Luther preached over 2,000 sermons. There are marvelous paintings of Luther and of Luther and Katharina.  You will find a 1534 German Bible, the first edition of Luther’s monumental translation.  There is also one of the first hymnbooks with Luther’s epic hymn, “A Mighty Fortress is Our God.”  And most interesting is a recent discovery, Luther’s toilet. 

Luther had well documented digestive issues his entire life and he was often obsessed with sharing too many crude details about his battles with constipation.  He shared that he spent much of his time in contemplation on the toilet, and that is where he received many great revelations.  He even wrote that his great moment of discovery that led to the Reformation, took place on the toilet.  Luther gave us more information than we wanted to know!  He could be very crude and vulgar at times.

German archaeologists discovered what may be the world’s most famous toilet in 2004.  The 450-year-old toilet was very advanced for its time.  It is made out of stone blocks and has a cesspit with a drainage system beneath it.  The first thing the lady did when we purchased our tickets was invite us to go see his toilet, which we did!

After a fascinating tour of the Lutherhaus, we decided to visit a 360-degree panorama painting of Wittenberg in the year 1517 by Berlin artist Yadegar Asisi.  Rick Steves has a fairly good review of this, but places it a low priority and says it is overpriced.  I probably would not have gone, but our host at the hotel told me it was an amazing experience.  The entrance fee was 11 Euros per person with an additional 3 Euros for the audio guide.  I would disagree with Rick Steves on this one.  This was a highlight of our Wittenberg experience and well worth the 14 Euros. 

This awe-inspiring 360-degree painting covers 12,000 square feet and is complete with light and sound effects.  Using a combination of photographed models and digitally reconstructed historic buildings, Asisi has done a masterful job recreating a day in the life of Wittenberg in 1517.

Yadegar Asisi has created a number of these amazing panoramic paintings around eastern Germany.  This was obviously created for the 500^th Anniversary of the Reformation and is scheduled to end on October 31, 2021.

We were glad we had the audio guides.  We learned things about the painting that we would have certainly missed otherwise.  It also helped to place everything in a great historical perspective.  After visiting the Lutherhaus and now the panoramic painting, we felt we had a fairly good understanding of events that led to the moment that shattered world history on October 31, 1517.

Our next stop was the Town Church of St. Mary, which is the oldest building in town.  The Castle Church that we would visit later was the University Church.  St. Mary’s was the Parish Church and for most of his life, this was Luther’s Church where he preached over 2,000 sermons.

It was in this church on Christmas Day, 1521, that the first-ever Protestant worship service was conducted.  All of the readings were in German, not Latin.  Communion was taken by everyone, not just the priests, and hymns were sung by the congregation!  

One of the most interesting fixtures in the church is the old baptismal font where all of Luther’s children were baptized.  There is a tube that runs from the basin to the floor, so the water that has washed away sin can be drained away.  But the most interesting feature is a group of demons around the lower legs.  They are attempting to get to the one being baptized, but above them on each leg is one of the Saints who impedes their progress.

We found a little Italian place where we ordered our usual, Rocket Salad and Margherita Pizza, then continued to the Church of All Saints, better known as the “Castle Church.”  This is where on October 31, 1517, Luther nailed the 95 Theses to the Chapel Door.  There is robust debate whether he actually nailed the Theses or not, but in the end, it really does not matter.  All Luther really wanted to do was to have a learned and academic debate with his fellow theologians.  He never intended to start a movement that would lead to a new church, the only “reforming” he was interested in was within the church itself.  But through a series of factors; political, social, economic, theological, and a new device called the “Printing Press” Luther’s ideas went viral and touched nerves everywhere.  The bottom line is that Luther was in the right place at the right time with the right circumstances for reform to take place.

I did not know before coming to Wittenberg that the Castle Church of Luther’s day no longer exists.  The church of Luther burned down in 1760 during the Seven Years’ War.  But the church that stands there today, built like the Castle Church of Luther’s day, was constructed in the late 19^th Century as a memorial to Luther and the reformers.  However, the arch over the “Theses Doors” is the original that dates back to Luther’s day.  Prominently buried in the church are Luther, Melanchthon, and Fredrick the Wise.

The Castle Church was the University church.  St. Mary’s was the local parish church.  The general public didn’t normally have access to the Castle Church, but All Saint’s Day was an exception.  This adds credence to the argument that Luther actually posted his 95 Theses the day before knowing that the entire town would be coming to the church the next day.  Most didn’t read Latin, but they would want to know what all the fuss was about. 

We had a special, unexpected treat Thursday afternoon.  We worshiped with other believers in the Castle Church.  Wittenberg has a volunteer English Ministry.  They sponsor worship services in Castle Church and the small chapel beside St. Mary’s.  A Lutheran Minister from the US will donate two weeks of his or her time.  There is also a couple from California who donated their time to work with the ministry.  They will be in Wittenberg for six weeks.

We met the Rev. Grace Gravelle from Cologne, Minnesota.  She said that she has been on a waiting list for two years and that she is the only female minister on the schedule this year.  She led the service that she described as “very Lutheran.”  I told her that even though I was a Baptist minister, I could be Lutheran when I needed to.  I told her about the great relationship we have with the Lutheran churches in our community. 

She brought a very nice homily on Luke 24: 44-53 in honor of Ascension Day.  The highlight of the service was singing Luther’s great hymn, “A Mighty Fortress is Our God.”  As long as I live I will never forget standing in Castle Church in Wittenberg, Germany and singing “A Mighty Fortress.” 

I had one more thing I needed to do.  I paid my 3 Euros and climbed to the top of the tower at Castle Church.  It was quite a climb of 289 steps, all up a winding staircase—the last part up a small metal winding ladder.  The view was spectacular as this visit to Wittenberg has been! 

We dined again at the Alte Canzley, outdoors behind the house.  Back in our room I looked out over the Chapel Doors.  I still cannot believe that we have been staying right in the middle of the greatest revolution of the past 1,000 years!

The next morning, I was talking to our gracious host and I asked him if he knew the story of how Martin Luther King got his name.  He did know that his name was not originally Martin Luther, but did not know the story.  I shared with him about Michael King, Sr. coming with a group of ministers to Wittenberg and being so inspired that he went home and changed his name and the name of his young son.  As I told the story, I pointed across the street to the Chapel Doors and said, “He was standing right there.  He was so moved that he changed his name.”

At this point our host shared something very personal and very sad with me.  He said, “I hear stories like this. I see people, like you, who come here because of their faith.  I can see the passion and see the difference this place makes for them.  But I cannot share this experience.  I was born here in Wittenberg.  But we were under the Communist regime.  We were socialists.  We did not believe in religion.  So I have never confessed my faith and I cannot share what you and others experience.”

He was very sad because he knew he was missing so much. 

I told him, “It’s never too late.”  

Then he pointed to his heart and said, “I understand.  It is a matter of the heart.”

I think Luther would agree. 

A taxi came to take us to the train station.  Berlin was just up the way.  Another adventure awaits us!

Rothenburg and the Rest of the Story

        The wonderful thing about a German Rail Pass is that you can go anywhere you want to go in Germany, but they didn’t promise it would be easy.  When Joyce and I were on Sabbatical in 2010 we purchased a Eurail Pass.  We started our Sabbatical in Lucerne, Switzerland and then traveled by rail into Italy where we went to Como, Parma, Bologno, Florence and the Chinque Terre by rail.  We then took the train from Monterosso al Mare to Perugia where we rented a car.  I didn’t have quite the scintillating experience we had in Italy this year, but the car rental guy in Perugia ended up charging me double from what I had been quoted.  (He made a big deal of throwing in the GPS, free of charge!)  I realized when I turned the car in that I would not win an argument with him, so I waited until I got home and took it up with the rental car company.  Thankfully, I had my documentation and was promptly refunded my money. And the GPS was still free of charge!

        Shortly before we left home in 2010 I was reading more details about the Eurail pass and saw that some trains needed to be reserved in advance, even though you have a pass.  I saw that our first train from Lucerne to Como was a reserved train.  I panicked, contacted Eurail, paid for two reserved seats, and also had the reserved seat passes expressed mail to me by Fed Ex.  It was the day before we left to fly to Switzerland and the passes had not arrived. I called Fed Ex and was told that they had been delivered.  I told them they had not.

        They said, “Yes, they have.” 

        “Well,” I said.  “I’m at 201 West Third Avenue (the church address), someone has been here all day, and we have not received a Fed Ex package.”

        I explained that I was leaving for Europe in the morning and really needed that package.  They contacted the driver and for some unknown reason, he had delivered the package to a house down the street from the church.  I drove to the house, went to the front door and knocked.  I could hear people inside.  Apparently, a large Hispanic family lived there.  But they would not come to the door.  I don’t know who they thought I was or what they planned to do with two European rail passes that required a Passport and a validated Eurail Pass, but it quickly became apparent they had no intention of giving it back.

        When we arrived in Lucerne I went to the train station and explained our dilemma to an agent.  He was very helpful and friendly and said, “You don’t need a reserved seat to go to Como.  I can put you on another train, it is not as fast, but it is a much more scenic route.  He was absolutely right.  We had a breathtaking and unforgettable train journey through the majestic Alps.  And, when I got home, Fed Ex refunded my money for the two reserved seats.  Wonder what that Hispanic family ever did with those reserved seats?

        The big difference in 2010 was that before each trip, I went to the train station, worked out an itinerary with an agent and purchased reserved seats when necessary.  When we had a tight connection, we had to get off the train, find an information screen, and then find our way to the platform to catch our next train.  We never knew when we got off a train on which platform we were arriving, or which platform the next train was scheduled to depart.  There was one time that we had to descend the stairs to go into the underground passage and then climb up to the departure platform.  When we got on the platform the train was pulling out of the station.  I started running, then Joyce started running.  The conductor was standing on the back of the train, urging us to jump onboard.  We literally jumped on the moving train as it pulled out of the station.  Joyce told me she was not doing that anymore!

But with my German Rail Pass, all I need is a DB Navigator App.  I put in our station of origin and our destination and it gives all the options.  The App gives us the schedule, the platform on which our train will arrive and the platform from which the next train will depart, how much time is between the trains, and exactly how much time it will take to walk from platform to another.

        Going from Munich to Salzburg was easy.  There is one train leaving every hour.  But going from Salzburg to Rothenburg would be a little more complicated.  Here is the schedule:  depart Salzburg at 10 a.m.  arrive in Munich at 12:06 p.m.  depart Munich at 12:21.  arrive in Nurnberg at 13:30.  depart Nurnberg at 13:40.  arrive in Ansbach at 14:06  depart Ansbach at 14:10. arrive in Steinbach at 14:32. depart Steinbach at 14:36.  arrive in Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber at 14:50. 

        I don’t know if you noticed, but we only had 4 minutes to change trains in Steinbach and Ansbach, 10 minutes in Nurnberg (We call it Nuremburg) and 15 minutes in Munich.  This was assuming every train would be on time.

        Every train was on time.  The only snafu was in Munich when we boarded the train to Nurnberg.  Remember that the agent told me there was no need to reserve a train----well, I think he was wrong.  We boarded a first-class car and found two seats.  A few minutes later a couple boarded and informed us that we had their seats. I found the conductor and told him that we had rail passes, but had not reserved a seat.  He said, “You must find a seat that is not reserved.”  

        We changed cars and found two seats that were unoccupied.  There seemed to be a lot of empty seats on this car.  When the conductor came by, he asked how far we were going.  Apparently, the two seats we were in had been reserved, but after he checked his computer he said that we were okay.  They were reserved, but not until after Nurnberg. 

        The challenge came with the two train stations where we only had four minutes between trains.  We were fortunate in Ansbach.  We got off the train and our next train was on the adjoining track, same platform.  We simply walked off one train and walked onto another.

        But Steinbach required us to walk down a flight of stairs, carrying our luggage, and walk up another flight.  Thankfully, there was a conveyor belt on which you placed your bags.  While you walked up the steps, your bags came up automatically. 

We made it! We didn’t miss a single connection and precisely at 14:50 p.m. on Sunday afternoon, we arrived in Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber at the train station.

        No trip to Germany is complete without a visit to Rothenburg Ob Der Tauber.  We first visited here on our 2000 Oberammergau trip, but we only stayed one night and I had always wanted to come back and stay longer.  After our exhilarating hop-on, hop-off train crusade, we arrived at the little train station and looked for the promised taxis.  There were none, so I turned on Google Maps and we walked a few blocks and then entered the Rodor-Tor gate into the best-preserved Medieval City in all of Germany.  It was just a short walk through this fairy-tale village before we reached one of the most beautiful gateways, the Roeder Arch and Markus Tower.  They date back to around 1200 AD.

        In 1264 AD a small tollhouse and a lodge providing shelter for travelers was built next to the arch and Markus Tower.  We are staying in this lodge, now over 750 years old!  Today it is known as the elegant Romantik Hotel Markusturm.

        This is one of the most unique and lovely places we have ever stayed.  The Berger family, who own and operate this lovely, historical property, have done a masterful job in preserving the historical character while providing all the modern conveniences and ambience to create a charming and inviting hotel.  The old structure is full of priceless antiques, old artifacts, rich paintings, and lovely furnishings.  There is a display case of centuries-old locks, keys, and hinges.  You will find hidden alcoves full of beer steins, exquisite lace, vases, porcelain, and old fabrics.  You will see old chests, medieval weapons, a grandfather clock, an antique rocking horse and even an antique baby carriage.  The grand old winding staircase creaks as you walk on it, but is still elegant after centuries of use. 

        When we walked into our beautiful suite we were spellbound.  Three large windows open to the cobblestone street below providing fresh air.  There is a gorgeous, four poster canopy bed with a solid, wood canopy.  There is a comfortable couch, a day bed, modern lighting, and an inlaid wooden floor.  We walked into the bath with a rock wall, recessed lighting, a full-size, free-standing tub and a huge walk-in shower!  A small hotel room could fit into this bath. 

        The dining room is elegant and stately.  Fresh-cut roses adorn the tables, always with starched white linen tablecloths.  There is rich, wooden paneling.  The food is the best we have tasted in Germany.  The wine is stored in their 700 year-old wine-cellar and they even make their own beer.  And the service!  Any great restaurant or hotel is ultimately defined by the human touch.  Everyone is kind, friendly, helpful, and they go out of their way to make sure you have the very best.  I went downstairs the first morning and asked the man in the kitchen if I could have two cups of coffee, one black and one with cream and sugar.  He asked where I was from and when I said, “North Carolina in the States,” he said, “Oh, yes.  Raleigh is the capital.”

        I found out later than the man in the kitchen was Mr. Berger, the owner.  The second morning when I went down to get coffee he immediately said, “Two coffees—one black and the other with cream and sugar.”  He fixed the coffees and handed them to me on a tray.  That is attention to detail!

        Monday was a beautiful day and we decided to take a city tour.  Rather than join a group or hire a guide, we downloaded Rick Steves Europe Travel App and followed his Rothenburg Audio Town Walk tour.  His excellent commentary gives you many details you would certainly miss, and you can go at your own pace.

        There is no doubt that the highlight of the tour was the majestic St. Jakob’s Church.  This magnificent cathedral was built in the 14^th century and became Lutheran in 1544.  The church was named for Saint James of the Bible because Rothenberg was on the Camino de Santiago, a medieval pilgrims’ route to Spain where it is thought St. James’ remains are entombed. 

        The stained-glass windows behind the altar are stunning.  The main altar itself has a dramatic carving of Christ and six saints.  There is a painted scene of the Last Supper.  The most unusual thing about this representation of the Last Supper is that Saint Peter is wearing eye-glasses!

        There are two windows that depict the Reformation.  One is the Martin Luther window that includes images of John Wycliff and Jan Huss.  The other window is the Philip Melanchthon window, honoring another great reformer who worked with Luther.

        But without question, the most powerful sight in the church and the artistic highlight of Rothenburg and perhaps the most spectacular wood carving in all of Germany is the 500-year-old, 35 foot-high Altar of the Holy Blood.  This is the masterpiece of Tilman Riemenschneider, the Michelangelo of German woodcarvers.  This was designed to hold a rock-crystal capsule that supposedly contains a drop of Christ’s holy blood. 

        The main focus of the carving is the Last Supper.   The attention to detail in the face, the hands, even the hair of Jesus and the disciples is astounding.  I found the most remarkable feature of this glorious carving to be the fact that Judas is at the center of the table.  The scene depicts the moment when Jesus hands Judas the bread, identifying him as the one who would betray him.  Judas is holding a money bag in his hands.

        The Judas in this carving is made so that during Holy Week, Judas can be removed from Thursday night until Easter Sunday morning.  The fact that Judas is the center of this carving, not John, not Peter, nor the others, but Judas as the betrayer, speaks of forgiveness.  Seeing this amazing carving was a true highlight of the day!

        Monday afternoon we walked the wall!  The ancient wall that still surrounds the Old City is a highlight of a trip to Rothenburg.  You can walk about a mile and ½.  While some parts of the wall are impassable, most of the old city wall can be accessed for a fun-filled stroll with fantastic views of this magical city.  You can climb to the top of the Roder-Tor tower.  It costs 2 Euros but is well worth the effort and the expense.  The views are fantastic. 

        At the top of the tower there is a display of the bombing of Rothenburg.  This beautiful city had been spared for most of the war, but on March 31, 1945, just days before the war ended, the Allies bombed Rothenburg with 16 planes, killing 37 people, destroying 306 houses, six public buildings, nine ancient watchtowers and over 2,000 feet of the medieval wall.  The display stated that Rothenberg provided no military or industrial advantage for the Germans and the only reason it was bombed so close to the war’s end was to break the morale of the German people. 

        Joyce and I saw this and we were heartsick.  Why would we bomb this beautiful city without any reason?  Why would we destroy centuries of history when it provided no military advantage?  Why would the United States of America engage in such an inhumane and senseless act—killing innocent people just to prove a point?  This is not who we are as Americans.

        But later that night we heard “the rest of the story.” 

        Rick Steves calls the Night Watchman’s Tour      of Rothenburg “flat-out the most entertaining hour of medieval wonder anywhere in Germany.”  Monday night was very pleasant, so we walked over to the Market Square after dinner and joined over a hundred or so of our friends, all willing to pay 8 Euros for the best evening activity in town.  Mrs. Berger told us that the Night Watchman, Hans-Georg Baumgartner, had become a very wealthy man with his nightly tour, not to mention his personal DVD that he promotes.  Of course, if Rick Steves gives you such a glowing endorsement, you are bound to be successful. Sunday afternoon we saw dozens of people lined up at an ice cream shop.  On the sign it read, “Recommended by Rick Steves.”  Other ice cream shops had no lines.

        The entertaining tour was well worth the 8 Euros.  The tour is in English and the Night Watchman is quite the entertainer.  While it is light-hearted and full of humor, it is also a great historical overview of this enchanting city.  Rothenburg was a “free imperial city” beholden to only the Holy Roman Emperor.  From 1150 to 1400 this city thrived with a population of over 6,000.  But the Thirty Years War and the plague that followed did the town in. 

        The Night Watchman did a great job telling the history and explaining the plague that killed 50% of Europe’s population in 5 years. He talked about the rats that carried the deadly plague.   The people of Rothenburg were required to have at least one year’s supply of grain stored in their houses, usually in their attics, in case an enemy would lay a siege on the village.  This attracted rats as well as the unsanitary streets and a lack of waste disposal.  The first people to usually die of the plague were the doctors and the priests, since they had the most direct contact with the sick.  Without a priest to administer the last rites, people were dying in a hopeless condition without an opportunity to confess their sins.

        He also talked about the Thirty Years War.  There is a fanciful story that before the Catholic Army was about to conquer Rothenburg, it was customary that the mayor provide the conquering general a welcome drink.  The general drank his wine and feeling quite well and happy now, offered a deal for the mayor.  The general supposedly said, “If you can drink this entire 3-liter tankard of wine in one gulp, I will spare Rothenburg.” 

        According to the legend, the mayor turned up his glass and amazed everyone by drinking all of the wine in one gulp!  The town was saved.

        Every hour on the hour at the 1466 clock tower, you can see this scene re-enacted.  Following the chiming of the hour, two windows on either side of the clock open and you see the general on one side and the mayor on the other.  The mayor turns up his glass and after a long time, finally puts it down.  People cheer.  The town is saved.  The only problem was, it never happened.  The Catholic Army took the town and plundered it.  Then came the plague.  Rothenburg never recovered until the middle of the nineteenth century when it started to become a popular tourist destination.  

        Toward the end of the tour, the Night Watchman talked about World War II.  I thought he was about to tell how the Allies had transcended the boundaries of decency and civility by mercilessly bombing the city at the end of the war, but he told an entirely different story. 

        Hitler had ordered that no German officer should ever surrender for any reason.  Even though he knew, and all of the German army knew the war was lost, Hitler ordered that every soldier and every town fight to the end, even if it meant total destruction. 

        As the war was reaching its end, the Allies were bombing Nuremberg into oblivion.  A German Army division lead by SS General Simon retreated and found shelter in Rothenburg.  He was essentially using the Medieval city and the people as shields, daring the Allies to do anything about it.  This is why the Allies bombed the city, because a large part of the German army was hiding here. 

        After the bombing raid on March 31, the allies planned to capture and destroy the city of Rothenburg in order to drive out the German army, but this is when everything changed.

        John Jay McCloy was an American lawyer and a presidential advisor to FDR during the war.  In 1945 he was serving as the United States Assistant Secretary of War.  Before the First World War, McCloy’s mother had visited Rothenburg as a tourist and fell in love with this enchanting city.  She purchased a painting of Rothenburg that hung in the McCloy home. 

        When McCloy heard the plans to destroy the city, he remembered the beautiful painting from his childhood and recalled how much his mother loved the city of Rothenburg.  He intervened and ordered General Jacob Devers not to use artillery to take the city.

        As a result of his orders, six US Soldiers were sent into Rothenburg carrying a white flag.  One of the soldiers, who spoke fluent German, communicated the demand for the Germans to either surrender or the town would be destroyed.  SS General Simon was not in the town and would not have surrendered, but the ranking Military commander Major Thommes decided to ignore Hitler’s orders, knowing that he could be executed for treason, and he gave up the town.   Rothenburg was saved.

        Because of his heroic actions, John McCloy was awarded an honorary citizen of Rothenburg in 1948.  Major Thommes was never punished for his decision to surrender.  People from all over the world contributed to rebuild the town from the destruction of the March 31 bombings.  As you walk the wall you will see their names the city and country they are from.  Many people from the US have made contributions. 

        When you think of Germany you think of Christmas.  The German Christmas markets are known all over the world.  Rothenburg is home to the German Christmas Museum where you learn the history of Christmas decorations.  You also learn about the evolution of Saint Nickolas and Father Christmas.  It was an interesting experience, but when you emerge from the museum you are in the greatest Christmas store in the whole wide world, the Kathe Wohlfahrt Christmas Headquarters.  The store in itself is amazing with hundreds of decorated trees.  Our favorite part was the hand carved, hand painted wooden Christmas ornaments.  They are expensive, but will be collector’s items for years to come. 

        We did some serious shopping, then found a little restaurant where we enjoyed some Asparagus Cream Soup.  In the morning we are on the road—or more exactly, on the rails again.  Our destination is Wittenberg, home to Martin Luther and the Reformation.  By the way, our next hotel dates back to 1391.  It is one of the oldest buildings in Wittenberg.  Luther dined there.  Kings stayed there.  Our room looks out over the famous chapel doors where 500 years ago Martin Luther started a revolution.  I can’t wait!

Looks like we will be hopping on and off trains again.  I will keep you posted!

       

       

       

Musical Salzburg

        Germany has one of the best train systems in the world.  A few weeks before leaving home I purchased a First-Class German Rail Pass.  The pass is good for four days in a 30-day period.  We have the twin-pass which is perfect when two people are traveling together.  It is only good when both people are traveling at the same time. 

        I walked over to the train station in Munich on Tuesday and had the pass validated.  The German Rail Pass is only offered to non-German residents and it must be validated before it can be used.  The conductor is supposed to write the date you travel on the pass---the pass is then good for any train for the rest of the day. 

        The friendly agent who validated our pass had to see our passports, then stamped it and told me to enjoy.  I asked him if I needed to reserve certain trains.  “No,” he said.  “This is good for any train in Germany.  Get on any train you wish; no reservations are needed.”

        This gives us a great amount of freedom on the days we travel.  On Wednesday morning, Joyce asked me what time we needed to be at the train station.  “There is a train to Salzburg every hour so we can go anytime we get ready.”

        We could have made the 9:55 a.m. train, but didn’t want to rush, so we left the hotel around 10:20 and walked over to the station and found the first-class compartment for the 10:55 a.m. train to Salzburg.  Fifteen minutes after walking out of our hotel room we were sitting on the train.  Even though Salzburg is in Austria, you are allowed to use the German Rail Pass as long as Salzburg is your final destination.

        When the conductor came by asking for our ticket I handed him the Rail Pass.  He looked at it briefly and said, “Okay.”   He didn’t even record the date on the pass. 

        It took us less than two hours to reach the beautiful town of Salzburg.  We walked off the train and found a taxi.  I had the name of the hotel, but not the address.  He put it in his GPS and said, “Oh, this is a small hotel.  It is in a beautiful location.”

        Our hotels in Munich, Rothenburg, Wittenburg, and Berlin are all in the city, but when I was looking at hotels for Salzburg, this beautiful little Pension out in the country, the Bloberger Hof, kept jumping to the forefront.  This family owned and operated hotel is in a beautiful setting, just a few kilometers away from the city center.  The house looks like a fairy-tale Austrian home.  There are balconies with flower boxes.  The balcony off of our room looks over a lush, green pasture—complete with cows—with majestic mountains still partially covered in snow before us.  If you look way off into the distance to your left, you see the breath-taking snow-covered Alps. 

        This has been the perfect place for us to enjoy Salzburg.  We have found this promotional brochure to absolutely true:  “So, are you looking for a lovely, cozy place to stay in Salzburg?  Well, you are in the right place with us here at the Bloberger Hof.  Why here?  Well that’s quite simple---the food tastes great and there is wine.  Allegedly, grandpa has the best Swiss pine schnapps in the country.  But come and see for yourself!”

        We came and there is no doubt---we picked the best place to stay!

        I was concerned about getting back and forth into town, but that has not been a problem.  The bus system in Salzburg is most efficient.  We catch bus 21 that runs every 15 minutes on weekdays and every 20 minutes on weekends into town.  We took the bus into town that afternoon and spent some time walking through the Old Town of Salzburg.  There was still some rain, but it was not heavy.

        Salzburg is a charming city, full of life and full of music.  Even on a wet day this Baroque showpiece of cobbled streets and elegant buildings is a stroller’s delight.  It is hard to get lost in Old Salzburg.  It did not take us long to find the massive Salzburg Cathedral. This incredible edifice was consecrated in 1628.  Its size and grandeur are meant to emphasize that Salzburg was the “Rome of the North,” as it remained true to the Catholic Church during the Reformation.  This is the church where Mozart was baptized in 1756 and the bronze baptismal font that actually dates back to an earlier church in 1320 is still in the cathedral today. 

        We made a stop at the Franciscan Church before finding our way back to the waterfront.  We didn’t wait long for bus 21 to take us back to the Bloberger Hof.  We had a delicious dinner.  Willy and Inge Keuschnigg opened this small hotel with 10 guest rooms in 1989.  In 2001, daughter Sylvia joined the family team and her boyfriend, Robert became the cook.  Robert and Sylvia are now married and have two adorable sons who bring much life to this special home.  We felt just like we did at the farmhouse in Italy, like part of the family.

        We watched “The Sound of Music” twice before coming to Austria.  Everyone who loves “The Sound of Music” looks for the special sites around the city that appear in the movie.  Luke picked us up in a van Thursday morning.  We were joined by a family from Arizona and were off to see the sights from the “Sound of Music.”   One of the first things we learned was that while much of the movie was filmed in Hollywood, the scenes that were filmed in Austria took much longer to complete than planned.  A lot of this had to do with the weather.  I did not know that it rained so much in Salzburg.  Luke told us that Salzburg is like Seattle.  A sunny day is a rarity.  You will notice that in all the outdoor scenes in the movie the sky is crystal clear.  Sometimes the film crew would have to wait for days to have a clear day.  We saw the Leopoldlskron Palace that served as the back of the Von Trapp home on the lake.  The lake scene where Maria and the children fall out of the boat really happened—in real life!  The director wanted to film it again but Julie Andrews and the children refused.  For one thing, the water was ice cold.  And little Gretel did not know how to swim and it was very frightening to her.

        We saw the miniature golf course where they entertained the children.   We visited the gazebo where Liesl sang, “I am Sixteen Going on Seventeen.”  The gazebo was built for the movie and after the filming it was presented as a gift to the city of Salzburg.  We walked through the Mirabell Gardens where Maria and the children sang, “Do-Re-Mi.”   We saw the Nonnbery Abbey from the outside, but the public is not allowed inside the see the courtyard where the nuns sang, “How Do You Solve a Problem like Maria?”  And we saw St. Peter’s Cemetery where the family anxiously hid from the Nazis.  That scene was not filmed in Salzburg, but in Hollywood.  They perfectly reconstructed the cemetery from St. Peter’s. 

        This was much more than a “The Sound of Music” tour.  We learned about the history of Salzburg, then took a lovely ride through the country to the lake country and the town of Mondsee to see the church were the majestic wedding scene was filmed.  We spent about an hour in this charming lake-front town.  We found a little bakery and enjoyed some apple strudel and coffee.

        The tour ended at beautiful Mirabell Gardens.  By the time we ended the tour the sun was shining.  We spent some more time in Old Town.  We wanted to see St. Peter’s Church but the church is being renovated.  We strolled through the streets of Salzburg and went into a few shops.  We started to visit Mozart’s birthplace, but a huge group walked in just before us, so we decided to wait.  We caught the bus back to the Bloberger Hof and enjoyed another delicious meal. 

        Daylight comes early to Salzburg in the summer.  The sun is up shortly after 5 a.m.  The daylight streaming into our room woke me and I turned over to see the most gorgeous sight—a beautiful, cloudless day.  The sun was already illuminating the glorious mountains outside of our window.  We knew that today would be a great day—we were going to Obendorf, the birthplace of “Silent Night.”

        We enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Bloberger Hof then took bus 21 to the town center where we changed buses for a quick ride to the train station.  I was not using my German Rail Pass, so we found an information booth.  I told the agent I needed two round-trip tickets to Obendorf.  He pointed to some stairs behind me and said, “Quick.  Go down those stairs.  The train leaves in two minutes and you can buy a ticket from the conductor.”

        We went down the stairs and just as we walked on the train the doors closed.  We were on our way!

        The young conductor was most friendly and helpful.   He asked if we needed bus tickets.  When I told him I already had bus tickets he said, “Let me see them.  They will give you a discount on your train tickets.”

        Before we arrived in Obendorf the conductor asked if we were going to the Silent Night Museum.  He said it was an easy walk and gave us directions. 

        It was a beautiful ride to Obendorf.  We went through lush pastures, lovely forests, over streams and rivers.  The majestic mountains were never far away.  It was a picture perfect day—not a cloud in the sky!

        We stepped off the train at the small Obendorf station on this beautiful day and it was like we stepped into a fairy tale village.  Austria is not only beautiful, but it is always fresh and clean.  The little train station reminded me of one of the stations at Disney World.  Obendorf had just celebrated the 200^th anniversary of “Silent Night” in December and they had been prepared.  There were numerous signs directing us to the small chapel and the museum. 

        The walk took us to the river that played a major role in the story of “Silent Night.”  Joseph Mohr was the Parish Priest at St. Nicholas Church in Obendorf.  His parishioners were “bargers,” hard-working people who made their living transporting salt to Salzburg on barges.  They were totally dependent on the river. 

        Joseph Mohr quickly made a name for himself in Obendorf as he spent time in the taverns getting to know his people.  He ate and drank with them and joined in their festive songs.  His behavior caught the ire of his supervisor, who considered it unbecoming of a priest.  He wrote a letter to the Bishop trying to get Mohr moved to another parish.  But the Bishop had also heard of Joseph Mohr and approved of how he was identifying with the people.

        I used to think I knew the story of “Silent Night.”  The story I had shared for years was that on Christmas Eve, 1818, Father Mohr discovered that the organ at the church was not working.  Mice had eaten through the leather straps rendering the organ inoperable.  As he could not imagine the Christmas Eve Service without music, he quickly wrote the words of “Silent Night,” and took the words to his good friend and church organist, Franz Gruber, who composed the music.  Because the organ was broken, Father Mohr and Gruber sang “Silent Night” as Gruber played the guitar.  But this story was all wrong.

        As last Christmas was the 200^th anniversary of “Silent Night,” and knowing that we would be visiting Obendorf, I spent a lot of time researching the background of the song and discovered a different story.  The story I found was that the river had flooded, which was a frequent occurrence, destroying the organ.  I did learn last December that a guitar would not have been suitable for worship, so “Silent Night,” was performed after the service was over.  And I learned that Joseph Mohr had written the words two years before.  But I was to learn even more . . .

        We visited the beautiful little “Silent Night” Chapel.  St. Nicholas Church had flooded so many times that it was eventually torn down.  The little chapel rests on the site of the original church, the site where “Silent Night” was performed for the first time.   It is very peaceful to sit inside the chapel admiring the two stained glass windows, one for Joseph Mohr, one for Franz Gruber, and the gorgeous hand-carved Nativity scene at the altar. 

        After spending some time at the chapel, we went to the “Silent Night” Museum.  I didn’t understand at first why the museum spent so much time talking about the bargers and their hard life in Obendorf, but soon it became clear to me.  The year 1818 had been a terrible year for the bargers and the people of Obendorf.  The river had flooded, they had been unable to transport salt down the river; plus there was extreme poverty and hardships.  Father Mohr was looking for a way to provide hope to his people in a manner that they could identify with. 

        He remembered the words he had written two years before after a particularly hard winter in another parish.  He had written the words but had never shared them.  Because he often sang with the bargers and spent time with them, he felt that the words would speak to them, especially if they were sung with a guitar, which of course could not be used in formal worship. 

        He asked his friend, Franz Gruber, to write the music on Christmas Eve.  The Museum states that the story of a broken organ was probably a myth, but now I realize that whether the organ was working or not doesn’t matter.  The people of Obendorf came to worship on Christmas Eve knowing that after the service was over, their priest, a true man of the people, had something special for them.  The worship service was very traditional, but after the service they heard the beautiful, powerful words of “Silent Night,” for the first time.  It was an experience they would never forget—and neither will we.  

        “Silent Night, Holy Night, All is Calm, All is Bright”

        In a dark and chaotic world, the soothing message of peace and light was a powerful witness to the good people of Obendorf.  Little did anyone know that “Silent Night” would become the most popular Christmas carol of all time. It remains a powerful witness to hope and peace around the world today.

        Our visit to Obendorf had been a powerful spiritual experience.  Everything about the day was perfect, just too good to be true.  We walked back to the train station and soon the little train came to take us back to Salzburg.

        We jumped on the first bus we saw at the Salzburg train station.  Most of the buses go to the Marketplantz in the New City and that was where we would get off.  But this bus took an unexpected left turn and I told Joyce, “We need to get off now.”

        We jumped off the bus and I said, “Let me open my Google Maps and see where we are.”  But then I noticed a lot of tents and said, “Let’s see what this is all about.  Lo and behold, we had stumbled on an Austrian Wine Festival—it was too good to be true!”

        Many of the small winemakers in Austria had gathered in Salzburg for this weekend event.  You rented a wineglass and then could enjoy any wine for two and ½ Euros.  They were also cooking sausage which they were serving with what we thought was sauerkraut and mustard. 

        We normally don’t drink much Riesling wine, but we found the Riesling in Germany to be totally different.  We would now have a chance to sample Austrian Riesling.  We found a tent with a very friendly and helpful young man who spoke excellent English.  His winery, like most at the festival, was a small family-run business.  We got two glasses of Riesling and after one sip we knew it was the best we have ever tasted—even better than Germany!   We ordered a sausage with (what we thought was) sauerkraut.   Joyce took a bite and said, “That is the hottest sauerkraut I have ever tasted!”

        I took a taste and said, “No wonder it’s hot.  It’s not sauerkraut.  It’s shredded horseradish!”

        We enjoyed the sausage and the wine while Joyce avoided the horseradish!

        We found another tent and tried their Sauvignon Blanc.  A well-dressed guy with a flat-cap who reminded me a lot of Chip Holton was standing at the tent.  It was obvious that he had sampled a good number of wines and he wanted to talk.  He wanted to know where we were from and how long we would be in Salzburg.  We shared some good laughs with him, although I’m not exactly sure why we were laughing.  We also met a winemaker who told us he used to live in Johnson City, Tennessee.  As you would expect, he spoke very good English. 

        The Wine Festival, as I discovered, was next to the Mirabell Gardens.  We enjoyed strolling through the gardens again before we caught bus 21 to return to the Bloberger Hof. 

        We enjoyed another delicious dinner at the Bloberger Hof, eating outside since the weather was so nice.  We ended with a glass of Grandpa’s Swiss pine cone schnapps. It has been a perfect day!

        Saturday morning also dawned bright and beautiful.  The majestic mountains were keeping guard out of our open window and we could hear the cows mooing in the pasture next door.  We had a delicious breakfast—Inge scrambles eggs to go with the different breads, meats, and cheeses. 

        We caught the 21 bus into town.  Early Saturday morning was the perfect time to visit Mozart’s birthplace.  We were able to take our time studying the many different exhibits in the very house where Mozart was born in 1756.  It is hard to believe that such a legendary musical genius as Wolfgang Mozart lived only 35 years.  He spent 25 of those years in Salzburg.  It was in this house where the young boy learned to play the violin and the piano.  His father, Leopold, also a musician, recognized his son’s amazing musical gifts early on.  Wolfgang was only 6 when he gave his first big concert at the opulent Residenz (which we would visit later) in front of the Archbishop. 

        The museum gives an excellent introduction to Mozart, his complicated life and his troubled times.  For Mozart fans, visiting this house is like a pilgrimage.  Salzburg is a city alive with the sound of music, Mozart’s music.   Every night there are concerts and you can buy everything from candy to music boxes with a Mozart theme.

        It was market day and we enjoyed watching the locals gather in town for a huge open-air market.  They not only have stands for fruits and vegetables, but they have mobile meat markets and cheese markets.

        We found a little café off the market and enjoyed coffee and a very delicious apple strudel with vanilla cream.  We didn’t really have a plan or a schedule so I told Joyce, “Why don’t we check out the Residenz?”

        Up until the early 1800s, Salzburg was ruled by powerful Prince-Archbishops.”  They had ultimate religious and political authority. 

        We bought our tickets and when we walked up the long flights of stairs and finally entered the grand hall, we could not believe what we were seeing.  We have visited palaces all over the world, but this was just as ornate, opulent, and ostentatious as any palace we have seen.  We wandered from one tremendous room to another, filled with priceless antiques, flooring, and paintings.  We saw where little Mozart gave his first concert at the age of six.  We saw the private chapel of the Archbishop.  We saw the passage between the palace and the great Cathedral, built so the Archbishop could attend church without being seen.  We also saw artifacts from both the Salzburg and the St. Peter’s Cathedral.   There were breathtaking views of the main square and the mighty fortress on the mountain that looks over the city.  We had a great tour.

        We went back to the Bloberger Hof for the rest of the afternoon.  The family attended a wedding on Saturday so the restaurant was closed.  We rode bus 21 back into town and found a neat little outdoor restaurant where we ordered a green salad and a Margherita Pizza.  Even though we were not in Italy, the pizza was very good.

        It started to rain again about the time we got back to the Bloberger Hof, but we had enjoyed three lovely and spectacular days in Salzburg.  This city truly is alive with music.  Tomorrow morning we head for the train station.  Our destination is Rothenburg and it looks like it will be an adventure just to get there!